Australian wine hopes for boomerang effect
Wine lovers can expect to see the changing face of Australian wines as new releases that reflect the modern reality of winemaking Down Under come on-stream. After years of being typecast as the source of oaky Chardonnays and jammy Cabernets and Shirazes, Australia producers are primed to showcase the regional character and diversity of styles of which they are capable.
The renovation process is most conspicuous in Ontario where LCBO outlets have completely overhauled their selection with the addition of 30 new listings. But such things seldom happen in a vacuum. Wine lovers everywhere can expect to see a greater range in the Australian offer.
After years of success, sluggish sales and weather woes caused Australia's industry to do a lot of soul-searching. The response has been to get back to what the country has always been capable of -- producing incredible, accessible and delectable wines at every price point.
Large volume, multiregional blends continue to play a large role for the Australian industry, but thankfully there's greater attention being afforded to smaller production, regional wines as well that will impress with their quality, character and drinkability. The latter aspect is something that Australia championed during its original climb to the top to a point where their wines arguably lost the former attributes.
While multiregional blends are great because they mean that a winery can consistently deliver the same flavour profile, regional wines are more variable, and therefore, more unique. There's a more defined story to tell consumers and, hopefully, a more defined character to appreciate.
Peter Lehmann Wines 2008 Shiraz boasts classic Barossa character � concentrated plummy fruit mixed with chocolate notes, creamy texture and mellow tannins. This would be a great partner for grilled steak or lamb. (Courtesy of Peter Lehmann Wines)
Here are three current releases that underscore the evolution of Australian wine. There's a classic Barossa Shiraz that reminds us what was so exciting about ripe and robust reds and two intensely aromatic whites that are just about the furthest thing possible from oak-aged Chardonnay.
Wines of the Week:
****
Peter Lehmann Wines 2008 Shiraz
Barossa, Australia
BC $19.99 | AB $21 | MN $22 | ON $19.95 (572875)
Peter Lehmann Shiraz doesn't get the credit it deserves for consistently and quietly delivering the goods. The 2008 vintage boasts classic Barossa character -- concentrated plummy fruit mixed with chocolate notes, creamy texture and mellow tannins. Approachable now, this would be a great partner for grilled steak or lamb.
***1/2
De Bortoli 2009 DB Family Selection Traminer Riesling
Riverina, Australia
ON $12.95 (207381)
Here's an expressively aromatic white that strikes a perfect balance between sweet and sour notes. Peach, grapefruit and honeyed notes make this off-dry wine approachable and enjoyable. It's refreshing enough to enjoy by the glass and has the right stuff to pair with milder Thai dishes.
***1/2
McWilliam's Wines Hanwood Estate Moscato NV
South Eastern Australia
BC $14.99 (892414) | AB $14.99 (742184) | MN $14.99 | ON $13.95 (212696)
Moscato has become the new It-wine in the United States and there's no reason that its aromatic charms won't work the same magic on Canadians. This winning example offers peachy fruit, pretty floral aroma and honeyed sweetness. Made in an off-dry style, its low six percent alcohol content makes it a great Sunday brunch option.
Christopher Waters is the editor of Sun Media's Vines Magazine. He can be reached at chris@vinesmag.com.