Waipara site worth its weight

By Deborah Walton-Berry & Peter Morice

We first heard about Black Estate when the 2007 pinot noir won gold, Best in Class and International Trophy for best pinot noir at the International Wines and Spirits Competition (IWSC) held in London in 2010.

Black Estate, which sits on the gentle slopes of Omihi, Waipara, was planted in 1994 by founder Russell Black. Penelope Naish says she believes Russell and his late wife, Komiko, had owned various hospitality venues in Christchurch, they were keen foodies and wine enthusiasts so the progression to establishing a vineyard seems a natural one. Russell also subdivided his farm to create Blacks Ave which runs off Black Estate and has vineyard properties established on the land.

The Naish family bought Black Estate in 2007 and the grape growing and wine making are very much a family affair. Rod Naish is the company director, overseeing business and controlling the finances. He's also rather busy right now overseeing the building of a tasting room and cafe. Wife Stacey looks after the grandchildren while daughter Penelope runs the marketing, exporting and "anything not related to growing the grapes and making the wine".

Penelope's husband, Nicholas Brown, is the winemaker and viticulturist.

Nicholas has been instrumental in the estate's conversion to organics and biodynamics which he says "is a fundamental aspect of our grape growing".

Alistair Blair looks after the vineyard and manages local sales. He's married to Penelope's twin sister, Jo, who brings her management skills to the table when needed. Rod says the success Black Estate has enjoyed recently is a great result for a family team that puts a lot of energy and focus into their vines (and wines).

Black Estate is a 16-hectare property, home to Mendoza chardonnay and pinot noir vines that have thrived on the northerly site with its limestone/clay soils. As more land is developed for the tasting room and cafe, so too will additional plantings of chenin blanc and cabernet franc go in.

Interestingly, the existing Black Estate vines aren't on grafted rootstock which is widely used to provide phylloxera resistance.

In exciting news, Black Estate has just last month begun exporting to Britain. Prior to this they sold into the Canterbury, Wellington and Auckland markets. For more information and how to buy the wines we suggest you take a look at blackestate.co.nz

Black Estate Waipara Riesling 2010 ($22.25)

A captivating aroma, fresh, lively and deliciously steely – a blend of mineral and lime underlined with sweet floral, peach and fresh fig notes that add interest and softness.

The palate is off dry, ripe and fruity, layered with some crisp citrus acid and attractive lime and mineral flavour providing balance and finesse. The flavours out to the finish and aftertaste are stunning – a blend of lime, mineral, sweet stonefruit with floral aromatics.

Great length and complexity starting to take hold. Textured and poised and excellent buying.

Black Estate Waipara Pinot Noir 2009 ($42)

A deep dark cherry red wine with a complementary sweet, ripe cherry aroma that's supported by sweet smoke, forest floor and mushroom notes. The palate is warming with some juicy cherry sweetness backed up by nougat, soft oak and green herb flavours. The soft tannins and silky texture make this a very easy-drinking pinot.

Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough Pinot Gris 2010 ($26)

This wine is a star – one we would happily buy because it ticks all the right boxes. Powerful poached pear, guava and passionfruit nose; quite intensely tropical and ripe with a rich, funky whiff – really exciting.

The palate is ripe and concentrated, textured and full of flavour. Tingly acids sit well with pear, guava, ripe apple and rich citrus flavours. Peter summed it up in his particularly eloquent manner – "it's big, ballsy, fruity and completely luscious". I don't think we'll win any gongs for sophisticated wine writing here but he's spot on.

Opawa Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 ($28)

Clear garnet in colour with a luscious, light fruity and floral aroma.

There's plenty of plum and cherry flavour backed up by some light oak and a hint of green herbs. The mild tannins become drying towards the finish and the plummy fruit flavour lingers. A breezy everyday pinot, drink now and enjoy.