Bright future for high and mighty vineyard
By Deborah Walton-Derry & Peter Morice
Ballochdale, probably Marlborough's highest vineyard, with a magnificent outlook high up the Awatere Valley.
Some people have all the luck. We had all-night grape harvests and Peter and Kris had daylight harvests. After trying to get some sleep about 10am, and failing, I trudged into the office and attempted to catch up with bleary eyes and fuzzy mind on the work that was piling up. This is not a normal state of affairs.
Meanwhile, a tremendous invitation arrived for us to visit Ballochdale, probably Marlborough's highest vineyard, with its magnificent outlook high up the Awatere Valley. Peter was dispatched on our behalf and given a writing assignment upon his return – after all, why should he have all the fun? So, take it away Peter ...
At a time when vineyards were being established at an unprecedented rate and little or no thought was given to soil profiles, frost protection or even who the fruit was going to be sold to, a project high in the hills above Seddon was taking shape.
After four years of research into soil types, airflow and varietal mix, Gary and Sarah Neill established a 34-hectare vineyard on their 550ha high-country farm. With most of the property given over to corriedales and beef finishing this was new territory and in Gary's words it was all about realising the potential of this particular site while providing another income stream.
The vineyard site is reached via a long and winding road which to us "townies" seemed no more than a goat track but along which approximately 300 tonnes of sauvignon blanc and pinot noir is trucked to no less than seven wineries. As we arrived at the vineyard we crested the last rise and there, spread before us was a sea of autumnal leaves against the backdrop of the Awatere River and the hills beyond. The vineyard is situated on a narrow plateau surrounded by gullies. At 300 metres above sea level this must qualify as the highest vineyard in the Marlborough region.
Sloping 55m from top to bottom, these gentle inclines lend themselves to the production of quality fruit the majority of which (20ha) is devoted to pinot noir with the balance (14ha) planted in sauvignon blanc.
At the time of our visit one of the contracted companies was hand harvesting their share of the pinot noir crop and after tasting some of the berries it was clear that this was a special site. Indeed all the grapes are used in single vineyard wines. Advantages of this site include low disease pressure and even soils with clay loam over shingle at 1.6m.
After several years of producing quality fruit for a number of companies Gary, Sarah and their investors are now planning the release of wine under their own label with a 2010 pinot in the barrel and ready to go.
If this new brand is anything like the pinot we tried as we sat on the porch looking across the gully to the vineyard and the mountains beyond, this venture has a bright future.
Saint Clair Family Estate Pioneer Block Twin Hills Chardonnay 2009 ($30.50)
Ripe apple, poached fig and some juicy peach aromas take centre stage. Pastry, cream and soft spiciness add depth and charm – this wine blooms in the glass.
The palate is complex and finely integrated. Ripe, sweet apple, warm spice, buttery pastry and some interesting mineral notes are counterbalanced by some citrus tingle. The lingering sweet fruit and crisp acid finish wraps up a stunning wine-tasting experience.
Textured, balanced, well-integrated – we can use all the right words but "gorgeous" really says it all.
A class act from start to finish and highly recommended.
Brancott Estate Letter Series `F' Fairhall Marlborough Pinot Gris 2010 ($34.99)
The aroma is a gentle blend of stewed quince and apple with some slightly steely mineral and fresh pear notes adding freshness.
The palate is spicy and fruity with the slightly opulent taste of fresh figs making an appearance. A wine with excellent fruit weight and texture, it's well balanced with a liveliness we enjoyed. The aftertaste is attractive and lingering.
A nice drop and once again, we highly recommend it.