The other red wine

The red wine that's ready and waiting to steal pinot's crown.

Pinot Noir has been all the rage in the last few years. And why not? Some consider it to be the finest red grape, and most would agree that it is the most seductive and sensuous wine.

But there is another red wine waiting in the wing to become the next darling. Syrah. So, is this the next big thing for New Zealand?

It was only an experimental grape two decades ago when Alan Limmer at Stonecroft released New Zealand's first commercial syrah in 1989. And it took many years before getting some momentum in the mid 2000s when plantings started to increase with some significance, although it remains a minor variety in New Zealand.

Even in the Hawke's Bay where two-thirds of the country's syrahs are planted, the grape accounts for just under 10 percent of the red grape plantings there. Yet it receives more than a fare share of press and attention. Well deserving too because Syrah is the most consistent and excellent wine style made in New Zealand.

Hawke's Bay rules syrah, in volume and quality, but there are increasing number of excellent wines from other regions – Northland, Waiheke Island, Marlborough and Waipara. At a regional tasting of Waiheke Island wines, there were a number of impressive offerings indicating this grape may have a brighter future, possibly more than the well established cabernet blends. 2006 was an excellent vintage in Waiheke and so was 2008.

Hawke's Bay has enjoyed a string of successful vintages with 2005, 2006 and 2007 offering tremendous amounts of delicious syrahs at every price point. Wines from the 2008 vintage are not as dense and powerful as 2007's but the good ones seem to show refinement and balance with a refreshing palate. The 2009 vintage combines the immediate appeal of 2007 with elegance of 2009.

New Zealand syrahs, with their perfumed bouquet and supple mouthfeel, are much better food partners than those grunty Aussie Shiraz. Besides, syrah's aromatic profile is very close to a ripe pinot, from red cherry and plum to dark fruits with occasional game and spice notes. The mouthfeel is also reminiscent of pinot but in a richer, bigger frame.

Will syrah then experience similar exponential growth of pinot noir? Too early to tell and a long way to go, but the signs are encouraging for it to grow beyond the current minor status. Especially with your help, syrah can become a significant red wine style and make New Zealand more than a one trick pony.

Coopers Creek Hawke's Bay SV 'Chalk Ridge' Syrah 2009 $28.00

It's sweet-scented on the nose displaying dark plum, blueberry, spice and cedary oak characters. The palate is concentrated and silky with a rounded mouthfeel and plenty of supple tannins. An immediately appealing wine with potential to develop rich complexity.

Craggy Range Syrah Gimblett Gravels Vineyard 2009 $30.00

An outstanding Syrah showing varietal purity as well as layered complexity, even at this early age. The nose is delightfully perfumed displaying black/blueberry, floral, liquorice and spicy oak characters. It's discreetly powerful on the palate showing velvety texture and loads of supple tannins. A generous wine yet shows lovely delicacy and a meticulously textured mouthfeel.

Mission Estate Hawke’s Bay 2009 $16.00

How good is this for value! A beautifully fragrant Syrah displaying red cherry, floral and thyme characters on the nose. The palate is elegant and nicely fruited with smooth texture and bright acidity leading to a lovely crisp finish. A brilliantly priced Syrah showing balance and harmony with lovely fruit intensity.

Weeping Sands Waiheke Syrah 2009 $31.00

It's ripe and pristine on the nose displaying red/dark plum, floral and white pepper characters. The palate is juicy and rounded with silky texture and lovely fruit intensity to the finish. A gorgeous wine to drink now, or keep it and watch it develop appealing savoury flavours.

Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2009 $34.00

The bouquet is simply stunning, displaying red/black cherry, floral, cedar and spice characters. It's beautifully weighted and framed on the palate showing superb concentration and velvety texture leading to a fabulously long silky finish. Just gorgeous drinking now, even though it will develop greater complexity in time.

Sam Kim is a senior wine judge and author of Wine Orbit magazine (wineorbit.co.nz).