Bright, fresh, affordable New Zealand wines

Mention New Zealand to a wine lover and the first thoughts are of Sauvignon Blanc. That’s the wine that catapulted the country onto the world stage in the 1980s when drinkers went crazy over the beautiful aromas and sharp grapefruit and lime taste of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, particularly those grown in the Marlborough region.

But drinking only Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand would be like reading only one book over and over. There are so many other great wines from the country you don’t want to limit yourself. With a combination of soil and climate that ranges from near-tropical to sub-Alpine, the island nation offers many ideal situations in which to grow certain grapes.

The quality of their Pinot Noir is raising eyebrows around the world  and  their wines from Chardonnay, Syrah, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec have wine enthusiasts raising their glasses as well. And the red blends of the Bordeaux varieties are also very popular.

Sauvignon Blanc still dominates, with 53 percent of the country’s production, followed by Pinot Noir at 15 percent, Chardonnay at 12 percent, Pinot Gris 5.3 percent, Merlot, 4.2 percent and Riesling 3 percent.

The difference is even greater in terms of exports. New Zealand exports 16 times more Sauvignon Blanc than Pinot Noir and nearly 20 times more Sauvignon Blanc than Chardonnay. The United States is the third biggest market for New Zealand wines, behind Australia and the United Kingdom. And we are the leading importer of their Pinot Noirs as well.

New Zealand is about 1,000 miles long from north to south and no vineyard is more than 80 miles from the ocean. The moderating influence of the sea helps give New Zealand wines their distinctive flavors. Long, sun-filled days and nights cooled by maritime breezes allow the grapes to ripen slowly over a long growing season. These conditions cause the grapes to pull unique flavors from the rocky soils while retaining the crisp acidity for which New Zealand wines are known.

Distinct wine-growing regions are spread throughout the country, but most of them are on the east coast in the rain shadow of rugged mountains. Marlborough, the largest growing region at the northeast tip of the southern island, is the most famous for Sauvignon Blanc, but the grape is grown throughout New Zealand, from Central Otago (the world’s southernmost wine growing region) in the south to Hawke’s Bay in the north.

The New Zealand wine industry has experienced explosive growth. In 1960 there were about 1,000 acres of grapes in cultivation. By 2009 that had increased to about 79,000 acres. Wine exports now are six times what they were 10 years ago. The number of wineries has grown from 348 in 2000 to 648 in 2009. As a result of this growth, there is still a great deal of experimentation going on as growers identify the right grape for each region and the proper techniques for each grape.

Despite these impressive statistics, New  Zealand still accounts for only one percent of the world’s wine. Its influence, however, is much greater than that number would indicate. For instance, the popularity of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc led wineries around the world to try to duplicate their style. And while there are many fine wines made from Sauvignon Blanc outside of New Zealand, no one has been able to match their powerful, distinctive flavor.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc usually is fermented in steel tanks, allowing the powerful, pungent flavors to dominate. Some are being fermented in new oak barrels, which prolongs the bottle life. That also can make the wine softer and warmer in the mouth. One of the nice things about Kiwi wines is even the best usually comes with an affordable price tag. Many of the high quality wines—including the highly-prized Cloudy Bay—from New Zealand usually cost less than $25.

Interestingly the New Zealand reds are reminiscent of the French reds. If you like the wines of Burgundy better than the riper style of California Pinots, try a New Zealand Pinot Noir. They tend to be brighter, fresher and with lively tannins, with spice and mineral characteristics. 

If you can find a New Zealand Syrah, you’ll find it to be more the French style than an Aussie Shiraz as well because of the cool climate.
Some of the best names in New Zealand wines, and the most likely to be available locally, are Cloudy Bay, Brancott, Villa Maria, Matua Valley, Kim Crawford Wines, Te Mata, Mount Cass, Nobilo, Isabel, Yealands.

New Zealand wines should be drunk young while they retain their typical bright, fresh fruit flavor. With that in mind and their attractive price point, there’s no reason to wait for a special occasion to enjoy these wonderful wines.