Geyser Peak winemaker enjoys 'alchemy' of process

Ondine Chattan said she likes being a custodian in the transformation of grapes to wine.

"I never tire of the alchemy of the process, and as much as I can explain it biologically and chemically, it is still a small sort of miracle," she said.

Chattan is the winemaker behind our wine-of-the-week winner -- the 2010 Block Collection Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $20.

What happens behind the scenes to make the Block Collection a standout?

"Mostly it is a lot of work in the vineyard with our grower partners," Chattan said.

"Meticulous farming to optimize the development of both passion fruit and elegant, ripe green flavors," she added.

Chattan, who joined Geyser Peak in 1999, said the most challenging part of being a winemaker is tempering Mother Nature.

"Fortunately, being in Sonoma County we generally have ideal growing seasons, but the last couple of years have presented challenges," she said.

"We are also lucky to be a world winemaking community and with the Internet we can learn how other countries have handled similar challenges and benefit from their experience and research," Chattan added.

Have you mastered Mother Nature?

"No, I haven't figured it out, but I do know that knowing your vineyards and making wise, practical, quality-focused choices throughout the season will usually end with good results," Chattan said.

"Even in difficult years the good, dedicated growers who do what is best from a quality standpoint always deliver excellent fruit," Chattan added.

Chattan said the best advice she can give other winemakers is to be a world citizen when it comes to wine.

"I have learned so much from talking with others in the southern hemisphere and Europe -- even South Africa to see how they have handled challenges in the past," she said.

"When you look into things a little everything seems to have occurred before and there are brilliant solutions to many problems so there is generally no need to reinvent the wheel."

Wine Writer Peg Melnik can be reached by calling 521-5310 or by emailing peg.melnik@