A Franco-German detente
By Deborah Walton-Derry & Peter Morice
It was a dark and stormy night, rain was lashing the province and roads were becoming flooded. As the darkness deepened, some hardy wine buffs gathered by the roaring fire at Forrest Estate for a Macvine International wine tasting – and soon the outside world receded.
Macvine International is a wine distribution company based in Auckland with a branch in Marlborough. It offers an extensive fine wine portfolio that features an enticing selection of national and international wines.
The man behind the company is Michael Jemison, a wine lover who set up Macvine International so he could become completely involved in wine culture and wine business.
Michael was also quick to realise that it was important that people had access to the right glassware so the Spiegelau range of German wine glasses was added to the portfolio.
Our night at the Macvine tasting was entertaining and interesting – we enjoyed some exciting wines from Rhone and the south of France that were diverse, of good quality and most of them were priced within relatively easy reach.
Sheena Thomson from Macvine, and Marlborough winemaker Graeme Paul (who spends a large chunk of his life in the south of France) were our hosts and as the wine warmed our bodies and loosened our tongues, we all had the opportunity to share our thoughts regarding these approachable wines.
Graeme's invitation for us to consider doing a season in France as a cellarhand held tremendous appeal.
To buy the wines reviewed here and others from the Macvine portfolio visit New World, Liquorland, Grove Road Super Liquor or, if in Nelson, visit Casa del Vino or Fresh Choice Richmond. Otherwise, contact sheena@macvine.co.nz
Les Vignes de l'Eglise Grenache Blanc/Chardonnay 2008, South of France ($26)
This "house wine" is made by Matt Thomson's assistant Alana McGettigan at the Cave de Rivesaltes for Liberty Wines. You may recognise Matt's name – winemaker for Saint Clair Family Estate, Lake Chalice and others; he is Marlborough's most famous "flying winemaker".
Alana arrives at Les Vignes de l'Eglise toward the end of August and spends about three weeks there before heading to Italy. She returns toward the end of fermentation to ensure the grapes she selected from various vineyards (the soils are volcanic, a blend of clay and lime) are shining through in the finished wine.
We enjoyed this wine's crisp, refreshing flavours – a blend of stone fruit, green herbs and mineral. Ripe with some spicy warmth towards the finish to round things out, this is a supple, fresh, food-friendly wine.
Baron de Badassiere Viognier 2009 ($24)
We had fun with this one.
It was dubbed the bad-ass viognier, and it was one of our favourites, probably because it was an interesting departure from the New Zealand examples we're becoming familiar with.
This wine is made from fruit grown in the Etang de Thau area, Picpoul de Pinet, in the Languedoc, near the coast in southern France.
In the 18th century the Badassiere vineyard belonged to Baron Charles Emmanuel who was rumoured to be the illegitimate son of King Louis XV.
Badassiere wines are deliberately light in tannic grunt to suit the British palate.
They are also made for wine merchants Liberty by Graeme Paul with consultant Matt Thomson – love the Kiwi connections!
The wine is dry in style, medium bodied and sporting some lovely orange, apricot and floral flavours.
Fruit forward with tingly acids and a long crisp fruit and mineral finish – another food-friendly wine.
Ferraton Cotes du Rhone Villages `Plan de Dieu' 2008 ($29.50)
Jean Ferraton founded his vineyard in 1946 with his father-in-law, Jean Reverdy. In 1998, Samuel Ferraton, fourth generation of the family breathed new life into the reliable but uninspiring brand by forming a partnership with the famous Michel Chapoutier. The expansive vineyards are located along the famous terraced slopes of the Rhone Valley and the Rhone plains.
This wine's drying tannins and some funky, warming spice flavours of nutmeg and cinnamon provide a nice foil for the plummy, juicy flavours. Some savoury, wood and pepper notes round out the palate; an interesting red and good value at the price.
Ferraton Hermitage 2005, Rhone Valley ($155)
The star of the show is always left until last, and this wine was a star.
Hermitage is the most famous northern Rhone appellation.
It produces limited quantities of long lasting reds and full-bodied dry white wines.
Hermitage was one of France's most famous wines in the 18th and 19th centuries and the name alone justified really high prices.
This 100 per cent syrah wine has a lovely perfumed blackberry aroma laced with sweet spice and rich chocolate/port notes.
Some attractive wine barrel pong adds depth.
The palate is sweet, powerful and deliciously fruity. The blackberry fruitiness, perfectly integrated herbal and forest floor flavours and smooth yet forthright tannins (I hesitate to use the word "gripping" here), give way to a drying, slightly chalky finish.
Fleshy and lacking restraint, this really is syrah at its best.