Vintage Calistoga

Kristen Snedeker and Darin Snedeker, both of Auburn, do a tasting at Bennett Lane Winery in Calistoga.

The French and Italians might scoff at the notion of a wine region being historic after only 125 years. But around here that's a pretty big deal, especially when it's taken so long (about 123) to be officially recognized.

Yes, it took until 2009 for Calistoga to be granted official status as its own American Viticultural Area, a status long desired and finally given thanks to the persistence of the wineries in this northernmost outpost of the Napa Valley.

Standing out among those wineries is Chateau Montelena, a stone winery originally built in the late 1800s by Alfred Tubbs to replicate a traditional European chateau in the Napa Valley. It earned the respect of the international wine community after making the winning chardonnay at the 1976 Paris Tasting.

Founded in 1972 by Jim Barrett, a lawyer from Southern California who was looking for a taste of the good life, the early days of Montelena really weren't so good, as depicted semi-autobiographically in the movie, “Bottle Shock,” which shows how Barrett and his then-hippie winemaking son, Bo, struggled to turn Chateau Montelena into a world-class place for wine.

“The classics never go out of style,” Bo Barrett said. “We have a 50-year plan, not 10.”

Montelena's commitment to making high-quality, age-worthy wine from Calistoga has helped pave the way for dozens of others to put their own imprint on the wine region's enviable reputation. Today it's not only loved for cabernet sauvignon, but also for other heat-loving varieties such as zinfandel, petite sirah and even charbono, an Italian heritage grape seldom planted in California. Here are some great places to visit for food and wine tasting.

Wine tasting

Bennett Lane Winery: Owned by NASCAR-team owner Randy Lynch, Bennett Lane has just remodeled its comfortable tasting room, incorporating a custom iPad application for guests to use as they taste. It includes tasting notes and reviews as well as recipes and the chance to email personal wine notes to themselves at home. Not to miss are the winery's reserve cabernet sauvignon and Maximus Red Feasting Wine, a proprietary blend of (usually) cabernet sauvignon, syrah, malbec and merlot. For the cost-conscious, Bennett Lane also makes a secondary line of wines called Turn 4. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; tours must be reserved in advance.

3340 Highway 128, Calistoga, 942-6684, bennettlane.com

Chateau Montelena: People visit Montelena for the wines, but stay for the Chinese-inspired gardens and lake, making it a favorite picnic destination with bocce court, walking paths and self-guided tour. Come by for the daily Library Wine Tasting (11:30 a.m. or 1:30 p.m.; $40; reservations required). Or schedule a “Bottle Shock & Chardonnay Experience” Thursday or Sunday at 9:45 a.m. ($25; reservations required) and discuss chardonnay's ability to age. Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

1429 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga, 942-5105, montelena.com

Madrigal Vineyards: The Madrigals have been a farming family in the Napa Valley since the 1930s but had to wait generations before having the funds and focus to open a winery people could visit. Madrigal makes the expected cabernet sauvignon, merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah and estate sauvignon blanc, but also an Anderson Valley pinot noir and Mendocino-sourced gewürztraminer, unusual for these parts. In September the winery hosts its annual harvest party and grape stomp ($35), open to all. Open daily by reservation 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

3718 North St. Helena Highway, Calistoga, 942-8619, madrigalvineyards.com

Schramsberg Vineyards: Schramsberg is more the exception than the rule in Calistoga, a Diamond Mountain-based house of sparkling wine. The winery sources its grapes around the North Coast, including Carneros and Anderson Valley, as Calistoga is too hot for the varietal. It's worth a stop to get refreshed with the winery's palate-cleansing bubbly and cooling caves, some of the first dug in Napa Valley soil. Plus, Schramsberg does a good job explaining how sparkling wine is made and what it pairs best with. Schramsberg is also a recognized producer of outstanding cabernet sauvignon, under its J. Schram label. Open daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, 942-4558, schramsberg.com

Summers Estate Wines: On the same drag as Chateau Montelena, Summers is one of the few places where one can usually taste charbono; the winery makes about 2,000 cases a year, more than anybody else in California. On a hot day don't miss the winery's La Nude Chardonnay — stainless-steel fermented, oak-free, fresh and elegant. The estate also offers a pleasant picnic area with impressive views of Mount St. Helena. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

1171 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga, 942-5508, summerswinery.com

Von Strasser Winery: Von Strasser makes powerfully memorable cabernets, most from single-vineyard sites. Look for its dark, soft DMD Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of five single vineyards all in the Diamond Mountain District. Rudy Von Strasser is the only Napa vintner growing and making gruner veltliner, an Austrian white. Come for the Vineyard Patio Tasting ($20) where five wines are poured and guests are invited to picnic afterwards, or a Wine and Chocolate Indulgence ($30) in the winery's cave, where five wines are matched with artisan chocolates. A comprehensive wine and cheese pairing is also done in the cave (five wines, local cheeses, $40). Visits are by appointment.

1510 Diamond Mountain Road, Calistoga, 942-0930, vonstrasser.com

Food and more

Calistoga Farmers Market: From 8:30 a.m. to noon Saturdays through Oct. 29, stop by for this farmers market featuring live music, cut flowers, fresh seafood, fruit pies and more. Special events include a Stone(ful) Fruit Creations day Aug. 20 and a Pumpkin Contest on Oct. 8.

Sharpsteen Plaza, 1235 Washington St., Calistoga, 942-8892, calistogafarmersmarket.org

Calistoga Roastery: The place to mingle with growers and winemakers and anyone else looking for a comfortable, big-tabled place to enjoy a cup of coffee, homemade granola, muffins and croissants. There are lots of breakfast sandwiches, too. The single-origin coffee — billed as “The coffee that wakes up Napa Valley,” should wake you up, too. Open daily 6:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

1426 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 942-5757, calistogaroastery.com

JoLe Farm to Table: On the ground level of the scenic and historic Mount View Hotel is the restaurant JoLe, committed to a farm-to-table concept, with husband and wife team Matt and Sojia Spector at the helm. He's the chef; she's the pastry chef. Options borrow from a small-plate mentality, with a Cal-Mediterranean influence, inviting diners to try new things, an especially good idea when pairing with wine.

1457 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 942-5938, jolerestaurant.com

Solbar Restaurant at Solage: Set on 22 acres in view of Mount St. Helena, Solage may be the best place to stay in Calistoga, with 89 eco-friendly studio cottages and cruiser bicycles on hand to ride into town. It is also one of the finest places to sit poolside for a meal or a drink, something you don't have to be a guest of the resort to do. Solbar has earned a Michelin star for its food, which can be enjoyed, oh so temptingly, poolside.

755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, (866) 942-7442, solagecalistoga.com

Virginie Boone is a freelance wine writer based in SonomaCounty. She can be reached at virginieboone@yahoo.com.