FOOD: Taste of Teochew

The deep fried shi liu guo is a brown ball tied in a knot

Often, Chinese food have names alluding to the dragon or the phoenix, especially during a wedding because these auspicious creatures represent yin (female) and yang (male).

Beautiful imagery is also used to describe how delicious the food is and to evoke a cheerful atmosphere at the dining table, which is important to the Chinese.

Recently, at the month-long Teochew Date promotion at Zuan Yuan Chinese Restaurant in One World Hotel, Petaling Jaya, we were thrilled over not only the the names of the dishes but also that of the restaurant. 

Zuan Yuan refers to scholars of imperial China who secured top government posts because they passed their civil examinations with excellence.

At least two items in the six-course menu were named after fruit because the fried and steam dumplings resembled fruit. Guava was round with a knot resembling the real fruit except that it was smaller.

We dined in one of the six private rooms and the afternoon was not only a culinary adventure but an intellectual one too because we learned so many new things about Chinese culture.

The intricate decor of the restaurant upped the ante, especially the silver leafed ceiling, ebony doors and strategic positioning of artefacts such as wine jars and nature paintings.

The starter was duo combination Teochew steamed and deep-fried fen guo, which actually means separate fruits and was very apt as the two dumplings — one brown and fried and the other with a see-through pastry skin — were placed like how fruit would have been displayed.

This was followed by braised shark’s fin with crab claw and scallop, deep-fried Teochew shi liu guo (which means guava), steamed leather jacket fish with garlic, ginger and

Teochew sauce, fried rice with olive vegetable or braised rice noodle with assorted seafood and sweetened yam paste.

The food came in modest portions and pampered our tastebuds without overloading the stomach.

The steamed and deep fried fen guo

Chef Michael Chew, whose father is Teochew and mother Hakka, says he has made the dishes pleasing to the eyes as well as to cater to everybody.

The sweetened yam paste, soft, smooth and full of the sweetness of ginkgo nuts and fruit toppings, is supposed to be covered with lard, but here it is not because the restaurant is pork free. Lard is also not as healthy as other oils, said Chew.

It was also heartening to hear him say that the food was prepared with olive oil, especially the fried rice. Olive oil is full of goodness as it contributes to cardiovascular health.

The steamed dumpling starter had a filling that nearly burst through the thin see-through wheat flour skin. We were tempted by the sliced carrot, yambean, mushroom and chive that looked so savoury. The fried dumpling looked like a curry puff and tasted as good in the mouth. Dried shrimps were used in both to bring out the taste. I loved the steamed one more because it had less calories.

When the braised shark’s fin with crab claw and scallop was served, I was surprised that for RM68, we could have such a luxurious treat.

The fin was one smooth slice, the crab tangy and sweet, and the scallop, one round springy relish that went so well with the amber clear soup with fish sauce.

Chew said the Teochew, who come from eastern Guangdong, love to steam their food and cook them with fish sauce instead of oyster sauce because of the fine essence of fish.

The fish sauce and spices really brought out the taste in the steamed leather jacket fish with garlic, ginger and Teochew sauce, my second favourite after the sharkfin soup.

The fish, in a chunk, is firm textured. Leather jacket fish has an oily taste but here, with the garlic, ginger and fish sauce, it became a nutritious, pleasing spicy fare.

The deep-fried Teochew shi liu guo, a brown ball tied in a knot, looked pleasing to the eyes. The covering was dried beancurd and the filling included mushroom, minced chicken, chestnut, parsley and dried shrimp.

When asked to choose between fried rice with olive vegetable or braised rice noodle with assorted seafood, we had difficulty but finally, we picked fried rice.

This was a tad too oily but when we found out that it was olive oil, we did not restrain from eating it.

The Teochew Date was made so much more memorable with hot tea and traditional Chinese music.

-Zuan Yuan Chinese Restaurant

Where: One World Hotel, Bandar Utama, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Tel: 03-7681 1111.
Opening hours
Monday to Friday: Noon to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm.
Saturday, Sunday and public holiday: 11am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm.