Wine, Etc.: Celebrate the season with sparkling wines
By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr
After seeing two years of depressed sales, champagne makers are reporting a rebound that stems largely from a growing demand for the product from China and other countries. So good are the sales, that major champagne houses have announced steep price increases in 2012. That gives us good reason to enjoy champagne yet this year - or look for alternatives in the sparkling wine category. Whether it be sparkling wine or French champagne, there is something about the bubbles that put people in the right mood.
Champagne producers have lamented for years that their fame - born out of an accidental discovery in the 17th century - has been only associated with celebrations. But as we heard on numerous tours through this northern region of France, every day is a good day for champagne. If you don't have a reason to celebrate, find one.
Producers have been unable to convince consumers to shell out $50 for an every-day wine, but only with the recent popularity of prosecco did consumers drink more sparkling wine. Prosecco's low alcohol and reasonable price made sparkling wine more affordable for the masses. Now, sweet sparkling moscato - also low in alcohol - is making the party scene. Both trends are good for the champagne industry as consumers experiment more.
Champagne makes a fashion statement because it is luxurious and French. For that reason, we recommend it as a gift, especially if you are invited to a dinner party or open house. It also is a great ice-breaker as guests walk into your house. Bubbles set a celebratory tone for a party and encourage a toast to extend thanks or remind us of the good things in life.
Is there any difference between a sparkling wine and a real champagne? To some extent, yes, but only you can decide whether the differences are worth the cost. For instance, we always recommend inexpensive sparkling wines at large gatherings (weddings, graduations, etc.) because there is no sense wasting money on one glass that gets scant attention. A small gathering of appreciative wine enthusiasts or an intimate dinner is another matter.
Prosecco's low alcohol make it a good choice as the first of many wines, but generally it lacks body and richness. French champagne holds court when it comes to finesse and richness. And, several U.S. producers make excellent wines that capture the same French qualities. Most notably, these include Schramsberg, Iron Horse, Argyle, Domaine Chandon and Roederer Estate.
Here are our recommendations:
La Marcha Prosecco ($15). Low in alcohol, this sparkling wine can be poured early in the night with less fear of an inebriated crowd sitting down for dinner. Light in body, it has apple and white peach flavors.
Nicolas Feuillatte Particuliere Brut ($26). Sales of this popular French champagne have skyrocketed in the last two years, although production numbers are closely guarded by the producer. Easy to find, Feuillatte continues to represent value in the French market. We like the blend of this enticing blue-label champagne and its fresh pear flavors with a dusting of almonds.
Laurent-Perrier Brut Millesime 2002 ($60). This blend of chardonnay and pinot noir is simply exquisite. A stunning champagne with fine bubbles, fresh mousse and delicate citrus flavors. Luxury doesn't get any better than this in Champagne. The brut millesime is made only in the best years, and this was one.
Taittinger Brut la Francaise ($50). Taittinger favors chardonnay, and for that reason this champagne is more delicate with fine bubbles, a yeasty nose and peach/apple flavors.
Mumm Brut Prestige ($22). The flagship of this California producer, the Prestige has won a lot of awards for its balance and elegance. Nice peach and melon flavors with a dash of vanilla and long finish.
Roses
J Vineyards Brut Rose ($28). The bottle alone is compelling enough to make a purchase of this sexy blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. Sleek in shape, it complements the sweeping "J" that represents founder and president, Judy Jordan. Apple and strawberry aromas blend with cherry and citrus flavors.
Laurent Perrier Cuvee Rose ($80). Made entirely from pinot noir grapes, this bold and striking champagne teases the palate with fresh raspberry and cherry notes, crisp acidity and good body. It is a champagne big enough to match most foods.
J. Schram Rose 2004 ($130). The luxury flagship of Schramsberg, this full-body cuvee can hang with the best of French champagne. Aged for six years in Schramberg's caves, it exudes luxurious berry and apple fruit.
Schramsberg Brut Rose 2008 ($41). More reasonably priced than the J. Schram, this blend of 65 percent pinot noir and 35 percent chardonnay is an exquisite alternative from one of California's best sparkling wine producers. Subtle apple and cherry notes.
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose ($50). We loved the coppery salmon color of this luxurious and reasonably priced rose. Cherry and almond notes abound from the largely pinot noir base. It would do well with salmon.
Gruet Rose ($14). Wine Spectator magazine included the Gruet Brut in this year's top 100 wines in the world. That's quite an accomplishment for a sparkling wine made in New Mexico. A perennial favorite of ours, Gruet is one of those wines that still amazes us for the price and the region. We like the rose for its tantalizing raspberry and strawberry characters. It can light up a room.