Vintage thinking for wine

China is Australia's fastest growing wine market.  

AUSTRALIAN winemakers are investing in education -- for themselves and prospective customers -- so the Chinese continue to develop a taste for their wares.

China is Australia's fastest-growing wine market and already our fourth-biggest customer. Exports were up 32 per cent in the year to September to $194 million.

But winemakers -- learning from the experience in Europe, where the industry suffered after the dollar spiked -- are not charging into every sector of the Chinese market in pursuit of growth. Instead, they are targeting the top shelf.Treasury Wine Estates is trying to foster demand among the wealthy. In November it launched a 2008 Special Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz at $1000 a bottle in Shanghai.

Since its split from Foster's in May, it was at one stage a takeover target of China's Bright Food, which wants to move into Australian wines.

Adelaide Hills winery Bird In Hand, which is eager for Australian wines to be regarded as high quality, is about to launch its third tasting venture, in Shenyang in northeast China.

Marketing manager Justin Nugent said the task was gently educating Chinese people, with the friendly reputation of Australian winemakers a distinct advantage.

"It's a big step, encouraging people towards premium wines, but we have tasting rooms to encourage people to try it out, to feel comfortable," Mr Nugent said.

Chinese businessmen are receptive to Bird In Hand's three labels, which range from $40 to $250 a bottle.

The group currently sells about 40,000 bottles a year in China and sales are doubling yearly. Justin and winemaker brother Andrew Nugent have a target of 500,000 bottles in 20 years.