In praise of Te Mata Estate

Sam Kim discusses why he considers Te Mata Estate to be NZ's finest wine grower

Impeccable. If I was allowed only one word to describe the wines of this historic Hawke's Bay producer (established 1896), this would be the word. Of course there are many other profound words that can be used to praise. After all, I consider Te Mata Estate New Zealand's finest wine grower (and they don't even produce my favourite wine grape, Pinot Noir).

This year's releases include 2010 premium reds. But before I get into the serious business of describing Te Mata Estate's iconic wines, it would be negligent if I didn't mention their excellent Woodthorope wines. All line-priced at $22.00, the range includes Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Chardonnay 2010, Merlot Cabernets 2009 and Syrah 2010/2011.

These are charming beauties with delightful flavours and approachable mouthfeel, although they will benefit from a couple of years in your cellar. They offer tremendous value for money, as each wine displays Te Mata's style and character, just in a more friendly frame.

Also requiring brief mention are Te Mata Elston Chardonnay 2010 ($38) and Te Mata Bullnose Syrah 2010 ($52). Both are sold out but if you do come across them, consider them a must-buy. They are stunning.

Te Mata Cape Crest 2011 ($32) is one of my favourite wines each year. The wine is predominantly Sauvignon Blanc (85 percent) with Semillon and Sauvignon Gris, and it is a world away from the classic Marlborough style. Fermented and matured in oak barrels, this is restrained yet persistent with gentle peach, citrus and herbaceous characters combined with elegant nutty notes. And it matures beautifully too.

Viognier is an exotic grape Te Mata has pioneered since 1995. It is still not a popular grape but Te Mata's Zara Viognier has a strong following and a sell-out each year. The 2010 vintage ($32) shows a full spectrum of fruit flavours – apricot, citrus, mango - together with a silky-smooth palate. A wonderful expression of the variety.

Te Mata Awatea 2010 ($38) surprised me how good it looked. A young wine needing 10 years or more to develop fully, this was looking gorgeous already. No doubt it will age well too. The wine is pristine and fragrant with red plum, blueberry and floral aromas with a hint of spice oak. It's beautifully focused and textured on the palate showing lovely weight and an exquisite, long finish. The more I looked at it, the better it became. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Now, the great Te Mata Coleraine 2010 ($84). Pricey? It certainly is. But compared to equivalent Bordeaux at $1000 or more, it's a bargain.

It is one those wines you wish you had a few bottles in your cellar, so that you can drink a bottle every five years to see how the wine's voice is changing, maturing, deepening. This 2010 vintage will rank as one of a handful of great Coleraines since the first vintage in 1982. There's no excess here. Not too much of anything, yet the wine is packed with perfectly ripe grapes and layers of refined texture within a graceful frame of polished tannins.

As the wine sat in the glass, the flavour of the wine was revealed in more dimensions than you might have thought possible. There's blueberry, dark plum and floral with hints of spice, dried herb and game. The palate is beautifully poised with a flowing texture and an exceptionally long, intricate finish. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, it will be drinking astonishingly well in about 10 to 15 years, and will continue to hold its beauty and grace for a few more years after that.

These are extraordinary examples in the world of wine. Some of the best wines you can get.