Labels you can go that extra mile for

I am constantly surprised by the number of new labels that appear in the wine industry at a time the export sector is struggling with a high dollar, there has been an oversupply of wine worldwide and in the face of an international credit squeeze.

Many of these new labels appear to have been created by growers who couldn't sell their crops so made wine and have then had to learn about selling it, finding out very quickly that space on the supermarket and specialist wine shop shelves is very precious.

Occasionally I come across a brand that has been around for a few years but is new to the New Zealand market, one such brand is Osawa Wines. This Hawke's Bay business is owned by Japanese businessman and wine lover, Mr Taizo Osawa who purchased 100 acres of land from Craggy Range in 2005 "to grow a wide variety of grapes to an award-winning standard" including some of New Zealand's finest wines where the "emphasis is always on quality rather than quantity".

Having planted their first vines in 2006 the company quickly established itself as a premium producer and in 2010 was the third largest exporter of wines to Japan after Sileini Estates and Villa Maria.

Much of this success is the result of a sound working partnership between Mr Osawa and his consultant winemaker Rod McDonald who says "our winemaking techniques and philosophies were developed to protect the natural balance of flavours and aroma which make these wines unique".

Osawa Wines has released wines under four labels; Sustainable Dots (named after the ladybirds that are numerous in the vineyard), Flying Sheep, Osawa Prestige Collection and Osawa Winemakers Collection of which only 100 cases are made. As production has doubled in recent years Osawa Wines are now in a position they can make these wines available to restaurants and fine wine stores in New Zealand.

While the Flying Sheep label makes up the largest portion of wines produced and exported, don't make the mistake of thinking this is a lower quality range, it isn't. In fact the quality of wines from this range that I have tasted is fantastic.

A great example is the multi-award winning Flying Mouton 2009 Pinot Noir (RRP$34.99) that is deep cherry in colour and has layer upon layer of flavour and texture. From ripe cherry and berry fruit flavours to the fine, powdery tannin finish this wine is delightfully balanced in every way.

From the Flying Sheep label the step up in quality to the Prestige Collection is significant and again based on the wines I have tried to date. These are very serious wines indeed.

I particularly liked the 2010 Hawke's Bay Chardonnay (RRP$44.99). At a price not much less than that of many of New Zealand's premium chardonnays it needs to deliver quality, and it does. Rich, complex base flavours are complimented by delicate wine-making techniques that add subtle toasted nut characters that are bound together with refreshing river stone minerality. All combine to make this a delight to drink and it has the structure and quality to age gracefully for about five more years.

Osawa wines are worth searching for and if you see them on a shelf somewhere you will be able to buy them with confidence. osawawines.co.nz

I HAVE BEEN DRINKING

Babich 2011 Irongate Chardonnay (RRP$35): This wine is one of New Zealand's iconic chardonnays that simply oozes class and quality. Beautiful nougat and stonefruit aromas hint at the balance of the flavours. Delicate white peach characters are complimented by toasted nut flavours and juicy mineral based acidity. A super wine.

Halo 2011 Marlborough Pinot Noir (RRP$25.99): From Sacred Hill wines, this is a pinot that delivers great quality. Toasty oak, spiced fruits, a touch of acidity and a rich palate weight make this a refined and elegant wine that is perfect with roast lamb.