Forrest branches into exciting territory

We live in exciting times as winemakers venture into new territory with varieties such as arneis, viognier, albarino, pinot blanc, petit manseng and gruner veltliner.

Marlborough's Forrest Estate launched The Doctors' Gruner Veltliner in 2010. That wine was made from young (2-year-old) vines and we enthused over its taste and texture. This new kid was off to a good start.

Not long after the gruner release, Forrest Estate owner John Forrest was contacted by Willi Klinger, of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board. News of the wine had travelled fast and Willi was keen to try the New Zealand version of an Austrian classic.

John says Willi's inquiries weren't competitively motivated. The marketing board was genuinely interested in what was happening on the other side of the world as other countries have begun to show an interest in the variety.

About two months ago, interest in The Doctors' Gruner Veltliner gained pace at the Osterreich Wein im Konzert der Nationen ("Austrian wines within a concert of the nations"), which was held in Zurich. In this event, wine flights are tasted blind and participants are asked to choose which wine in the flight is the Austrian example and which of the wines they like most.

The Doctors' Gruner Veltliner was up against Gruner Veltliner Finger Lakes 2011 (US) and Kamptal DAC Reserve Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang 2010 (Austria).

The Austrian wine was from Weingut Brundlmayer, which is recognised as one of the finest wine companies in Austria.

Production is from 60 hectares of mostly terraced vineyards and 33 per cent of total production is gruner veltliner.

The Finger Lakes wine was from Dr Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, a company that specialises in the production of high-quality wines in the Finger Lakes region of New York.

The Dr Frank story is an interesting one (worth googling in a spare moment), and the winery has an international reputation for particularly fine wines, especially riesling.

The team at Forrest Estate was delighted to learn that its wine was the one chosen as the Austrian wine and the one preferred by the tasters.

Forrest Estate has just two hectares in gruner veltliner - one in the Wairau Valley and another in the Southern Valleys.

"I think both will do well for different reasons," John Forrest says. "You get some attractive minerality from the Wairau, while the flavours and textural aspects come from the clay soils in the southern hills."

The Australians are also interested in gruner. It's a variety that is being talked up in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia.

John spent a month teaching at the School of Agriculture, Food and Wine at Adelaide University not long after he had signed off on his first gruner vintage.

"I tasted some of the gruner coming out of the Adelaide Hills vineyards and found they lacked the aromatics and vibrancy that I feel makes ours a much more interesting wine.

"Now we've proved we can make internationally accepted gruner, which is a great step forward."

Winemaker Chris Andrews has been a valuable asset in the gruner story at Forrest Estate. He has done six vintages in Wachau, so it's no surprise he did the background research on the viability of growing gruner in Marlborough.

"Chris gave us an advantage, no doubt about that," John says.

He is quick to add that research, investment and innovation have always been behind The Doctors' label. That innovation continues with experimentation within The Doctors' portfolio.

Unusual varieties albarino and arneis are about to be joined by petit manseng and another Austrian, St Laurent.

We know little about St Laurent, but Michael Cooper describes it as typically deeply coloured and silky smooth. The vine buds early, so it's prone to frost damage but ripens well, ahead of pinot noir.

What about my The Doctors' Gruner Veltliner 2010 tucked away in the cellar? John says the wine will have become chardonnay-like over time. It will have increased weight and texture, while remaining fresh with floral, herbal and fruit flavours.

It sounds as if it's time to open a bottle and experience developments first hand.

The Doctors' Marlborough Gruner Veltliner 2011 ($25)

The aroma is mineral, oily, tropical, floral, with tinned apricot and underlying crisp fruit notes.

The palate has some weight, with stonefruit, pear and spice flavours to the fore. There is some underlying minerality and juiciness, enhanced by a lick of residual sugar and a lingering finish. Good balance and some complexity add up to an attractive wine. Get some while you can.