Different shades of Aussie shiraz

Do all Aussie shiraz taste the same? Do all heavy metal bands sound the same? At least I know the answer to the first question. Yes - and no.

There are certain flavours and mouthfeel that define Australian shiraz, especially those from South Australia. They are warm climate wines with rich fruit flavours and smooth texture. And many of us have fallen under the spell of these plush reds.

Most wines are blended from many vineyards in order to achieve consistency in style and quality. Winemakers need that mad scientist-like dedication to blend different components to make the wine just right. This consistency in style can lead to many wines looking similar. Great for consumers looking for familiar characters in a wine year after year. But we rarely get to see each component in its pure form.

At recent tastings two great Australian producers demonstrated remarkable variations among vineyards within a region.

Peter Lehmann wines are hugely popular for very good reason. Their Barossa Shiraz 2009 ($29) is chock-full of rich fruit flavours and velvety texture. Art Series Shiraz Cabernet 2010 ($19) is smooth and juicy, and is so easy to like. In the premium category, the wines are mind-bogglingly good. The Futures Shiraz 2008 ($32) combines power and opulence of a top-notch wine with friendliness of an easy-drinking shiraz. And the very best, Stonewell Shiraz 2006 ($110) is glorious - saturated in dark fruits with subtle spice and oak. The palate is dense and sweet, as silky as milk chocolate on the mid palate, and as firm as dark chocolate on the finish.

To highlight sub-regional differences of the Barossa Valley, Peter Lehmann have released wines under the 'Very Special Vineyard Series'. The wines are made in tiny volumes and will thrill wine enthusiasts. They demonstrate flavour and textural differences between each vineyard. Orrick Shiraz 2009 ($50) from the slightly cooler Southern Flinders district, shows more spice, game and dark fruit flavours. 1885 Shiraz 2009 ($50) comes from the Ebenezer district in the north-east of the Barossa, and displays more classic fruit power with sweet fragrance and silkiness. The vineyard is a little treasure too, as it was planted in 1885.

Equally engaging and fascinating are wines from d'Arenberg of McLaren Vale, who are celebrating 100 years of family winemaking. They too are famous for immensely drinkable wines. d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache 2009 ($29) has the fruit power of shiraz with lovely perfume of grenache. The Laughing Magpie Shiraz 2008 ($40) shows lifted aromas and dense palate that flows so effortlessly. It's a formidable wine but dangerously easy to drink. And their iconic, Dead Arm Shiraz 2008 ($79) is a substantial wine of staggering power and richness. It is meaty and gamey, backed by wonderful berry fruit medley. It’s full of muscle but maintains graceful poise. Each sip reveals extra flavour and intrigue.

To celebrate the centenary, they released individual component that would go into Dead Arm Shiraz. There are some 12 single vineyard shiraz from the outstanding 2010 vintage. Some are floral and fragrant, others are meaty and savoury. There are wines with firm tannins, others more supple. Some are show ponies, others are discreet and sturdy, but most are sumptuous and abundance in delicious flavour. They are all made in the same way, yet the difference is fascinating.

We love the consistent and familiar flavours of Australian shiraz. No other country can make them like they do. But it's also great to see variations and subtleties among them.