Wine: Chile and China rising

The results of the 2012 Decanter World Wine Awards, sponsored by Decanter, the U.K. wine magazine, suggest real movement in the tectonic plates of the world of wine.

Although French wines carried off six of the International Trophies, it was closely followed by Chile, which won five. And it was a pinot noir from Chile — not from France or New Zealand — that took the “Pinot Noir over £10 (about $16) Trophy,” which always carries a lot of prestige.

Thinking of Chile as a rising quality wine producer isn’t surprising, but consider some other results. China won the trophy in the “Red Bordeaux Varietal under £10” category for a cabernet franc-dominant blend that the judges described as “wonderfully ripe and elegant.” The Chinese wine industry has been coming on strong in the last few years — it’s already the sixth biggest producer in the world and just trailing Argentina — but it’s still young.

This is not the first time a Chinese wine won a trophy at the Decanter Awards, and it suggests that we’ll soon regularly be seeing Chinese wine in our market. Production in China is increasing much more rapidly that consumption, and when that happens (as it did in Argentina), watch for producers to make a strong play for export markets.

Another surprising result in the Decanter Awards was the most successful wine region — the region with the most awards in relation to the number of entries. And the winner was ... England and Wales. Some 89 per cent of the English/Welsh entries won awards, compared to a success rate of 69 per cent for the more than 14,000 entries overall.

We don’t hear much of English wineries here (Wales has only a few), but they’re getting a lot of attention elsewhere, particularly for sparkling wines and whites. England has had a continuous history of wine production since the Romans introduced it 2,000 years ago, although it hasn’t always been prestigious.

In the Bayeux Tapestry, which documents the Norman conquest of England in 1066, there’s a panel showing the invading Normans hauling a barrel of wine with them. It might say something about their assessment of the wine available locally. Either way, English winemaking seems to be coming into its own, at last.

Two other results: New Zealand was the most successful of the established regions, with 92 per cent of its entries getting awards, and chenin blanc was the most successful varietal wine, with a rate of 91 per cent.

Competitions like these, in which wines are judged blind by an international panel of wine professionals, don’t give us an exact picture of the wine world; among other things, the results depend on the wines that are entered. But they provide an interesting snapshot with intriguing hints of changes to come.

Email Rod Phillips at rod@rodphillipsonwine.com. Join him online Thursdays, 2 to 3 p.m. at ottawacitizen.com/winechat, and follow him on Twitter at@rodphillipswine

Mouton Cadet Réserve Graves 2009

A blend of Semillon, sauvignon blanc and muscdelle, this white from the Graves region of Bordeaux offers quality and value. Look for well-defined flavours and crisp, fresh acidity. It’s an excellent choice for many white fish and poultry dishes. 12-per-cent alcohol; $14.60 (247080)

Santa Marherita Pinot Grigio 2011

This very popular Italian pinot grigio deserves its following. The flavours are rich and nuanced, and they’re well balanced by the refreshing, food-friendly texture. It goes well with well-seasoned chicken and pork. 12.5-per-cent alcohol; $16.95 (106450, Vintages Essential)

Monte Antico 2007

Mostly sangiovese, with a little cabernet sauvignon and merlot, this Tuscan red delivers solid, concentrated flavours from start to finish. The texture is tangy, the tannins easy-going, and it’s a good bet for hearty pasta dishes. 13-per-cent alcohol; $15.95 (69377, Vintages Essential)

Baron Philippe de Rothschild Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

There’s good value in this bottle of southern French cabernet. Look for quite concentrated flavours with decent complexity, and a texture that’s quite fresh and dry. It goes well with red meats, as well as burgers and seasoned sausages. 13.5-per-cent alcohol; $10.95 (407551)