“HE WHO HESITATES IS LOST” ITEM: Which applies to us personally. We delayed buying tickets to the Slow Food event in Ess Eff. When we did try, we found the main venue at the pavilion at Ft. Mason was sold out. We did attend the Slow Food event in Torino, Italy, in 2000 and as I wrote then, found it to be the most mind-boggling wine and food extravaganza we had ever attended. According to friends who did get tickets and attended the Ess Eff event, it was also grey-matter rattling.

 The final dinner in Torino (which they did not have here) consisted of 132 courses and 42 wines. It ran from noon to  midnight! We stopped early when it was obvious that we would meet our demise if we continued, and our insurance company would have concluded it was a double suicide which would release them of any obligation.

The Slow Food movement has as its goal the encouragement of healthy, locally grown foods as opposed to fast foods. Unfortunately, a huge segment of the American public is addicted to unhealthy, processed, fast foods. A case in point is that fast food chains offer obesity-inducing menus of fat-saturated hamburgers and, in many cases, trans-fat French fries and cola-flavored, sugar water.

On the subject of healthful beverages: In his Aug. 20 article, the New York Times writer, Eric Asimov, praised Napa Valley winemakers who are turning away from the high-alcohol  “fruit bombs” (that influential writers have anointed with their high ratings) in favor of lower alcohol, elegant wines. Michael Mondavi in his soon-to-be-released signature wine, “M,” removed the largest leaves in the vines to obtain ripe fruit with lower sugars, hence a lower alcohol wine. If you go to the NY Times on-line archives, you can find Asimov’s list of the winemakers who are making lower alcohol, elegant wines.

I’ll bet there is a lot of hand wringing in the executive offices of the Wine Spectator these days as a result of the magazine’s giving an award to a fictitious restaurant. The magazine admits that many of the restaurants that receive its awards were never visited and the WS awards are only based on copies of the menus and wine lists.

Many in the industry consider wine scores a joke, as Paul Franson noted in his Napa Life weekly newsletter. I do not review wines in my columns because I think that the enjoyment of wines is very personal and subjective. An interesting experiment that reinforces my conclusion is that I have held tastings of five or six “bagged” wines and given my guests copies of the Wine Spectator’s descriptions of them. I asked my guests to identify the wines, based on the WS’s descriptions. The participants almost always were unable to do so. So, what’s a body to do? Answer: Find a wine writer whose evaluations fit your perceptions: then trust him/her. Do not rely on critics, based on their celebrity status.

SIPPING ON: It’s harvest time and some wineries are holding “Blessing of the Grapes” ceremonies. On Sept. 3, Grgich Hills Winery held its 31st annual Blessing of the Grapes. The Hess Collection will hold its 10th annual Blessing of the Grapes beginning at 11 a.m. on Tuesday, Sept. 9.

Cobblestone Vineyards in the Atlas Peak appellation is going global: Its owners have purchased acreage in New Zealand with the intent of growing high-end pinot noir.

Bennett Lane Winery in Calistoga has launched a “Fruit and Flavors” wine-education program which includes a vineyard tour, a sensory evaluation seminar, a hands-on blending session and a gourmet cheese-tasting experience. The cost is $200 per person. Call 942-6684 for info.

CIA at Greystone has announced the “Greystone Express,” an online newsletter for wine and food enthusiasts. The letter, sent out every other month, includes news of wine and food events, recipes, etc. Call 967-2303 for info.

Miles and Susan Karakasevic are celebrating the 25th anniversary of their Charbay Distillery. In addition to seven fruit-based vodkas, they produce two rums, a black walnut liqueur, and a whiskey distilled from lager beer. They also produce a rosé wine, an Oakville and a Stag’s Leap cabernet sauvignon, a ruby port and a pomegranate and a green tea aperitif.

 Last Saturday Spottswoode Winery held is annual garden party for friends who purchase their wines. It was perfect weather for sipping six Spottswoode wines (made by an all female staff) in a lovely garden setting with delicious finger foods and cheeses and live music by Napa’s Rhythm Cats, who played foot-tapping “Elvis” rock ‘n’ roll, perfect for the afternoon and the ending of a pre-harvest week.

CABOOSE ITEM: If you also missed the Slow Food exhibition in “The City,” you can find some consolation in the realization that Napa Valley has the “slow food” philosophy as evidenced by our Farmers Markets and specialty stores where processed foods are at a minimum and fresh produce, cage-free poultry and eggs, hormone-free meats and fresh sea-foods are available. Most of our chefs prepare dishes with healthy nutrition in mind.