Shopping For Wine(1)
Trying to predict what will happen economically this year is about as difficult as predicting the weather six months from now.
But some interesting developments in the wine world could well come to a head in 2009 as a result of the recent global meltdown.
The wine world--not unlike the U. S. financial sector that caused this mess in the first place--has seen its share of greed as well, and I would be willing to bet governments will not be bailing out wineries any time soon.
Take classified growth wines from Bordeaux for example. These wines are bought and sold as futures each year by negociants--wine brokers-- whose job it is to determine what the market will bear in terms of pricing.
Record high prices were commanded for wines from the exceptional 2005 vintage, but that bubble appears to have burst. I, for one, say it is long overdue.
There is also speculation that the whole negociant system could be scrapped, a move that should prove beneficial to the consumer as the negociants take a significant slice of the pie.
It will be interesting to see where prices go for the 2006 and 2007 classified growth wines as they arrive, but my guess is that the ones that offer perceived value will do just fine, while the overpriced trophy wines may get a well-deserved trouncing.
As for wine trends this year, think Latino: Argentina, Chile and Spain. These countries do not have a monopoly on value, but they all produce wines that offer great value across a broad palate of styles and flavours, with something for everyone.
In France, the Rhone Valley and the Languedoc produce amazing bargains, as does southern Italy.
If you have not yet jumped on the Riesling bandwagon, this is the time. This once under-appreciated white grape is assuming its rightful place as one of the world's truly great varietals; enjoy it while it is still under-valued.
As for wine retailers in Calgary, most have reported a decent holiday season--not as robust as the previous year, obviously--but quite healthy, all things considered. While beer sales in Canada, with the exception of the Maritime provinces, have been declining, wine sales have increased drastically as many of us now view wine in much the same way the Europeans do --as an everyday staple.
Wine bars are popping up everywhere in North America and this is certainly a welcome trend for wine lovers. Calgary is no exception in that area (see John Gilchrist's column, above, for a description of Vin Room).
Our city has become the most wine-savvy city in Western Canada, despite what Vancouverites may tell you. No one can deny that Vancouver has a vibrant restaurant scene, but I challenge them to find better places than Vin Room, Divino and River Cafe, to name but a few, when it comes to wine selection and pricing.
We are also fortunate to have a great cross-section of excellent wine stores staffed by passionate, knowledgeable people, a far cry from most of the government-run establishments the rest of Canada must contend with. Cheers!
Geoff last is a lonGtime calGary wine merchant and writer and a reGular contriButor to city palate and other puBlications. he instructs on food and wine at the cookBook company cooks.
