Ancient Spaniards for Modern Cellars(2)
What does this mean? Well, because people generally need a reason to buy wines from a region they don’t know, it’s not uncommon to encounter older vintages of such wines that have been on the shelves for a while. This can be bad if dusty bottles sit in the heat and light, but if storage conditions are right, it can be a good opportunity to taste a wine with some aging.
We liked the wine well enough — it was delicious, in fact. I include it not to suggest that this particular vintage will be easy to find, but to give a sense of the unexpected bottles that may be out there in the marketplace.
Whether Bierzo ultimately succeeds in creating a niche for itself is anybody’s guess. It has plenty of competition, not least from the other emergent regions in Spain, like its neighbor, Ribeira Sacra, which also makes wines from the mencía grape. The economy will also make it difficult to sell the more expensive bottles. On the other hand, if distinctive wines are an advantage, Bierzo may have a good hand to play.
Some of the less expensive wines on our list might be especially attractive, like the Abad, the 2006 from Bodegas Peique, and the 2006 Pétalos from Palacios, which narrowly missed making the top 10.
It may be that, like me, you’ll develop a taste for Bierzo that won’t go away.
Tasting Report: Haunting Complexity From Old-World Reds
Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Villa de Corullón 2004
$75
*** 1/2
Still tight, but lovely and complex with wild fruit aromas and distinct minerality. (Importer: The Rare Wine Company, Vineburg, Calif.)
BEST VALUE
Bodega del Abad Bierzo Dom Bueno 2005
$14
***
Dense and structured, with complex fruit and mineral flavors. (Frontier Wine Imports, Dover, N.J.)
Herederos de Martínez Fuente Bierzo Pucho 2006
$18
***
Vibrant and perfumed with exotic aromas of wild cherry, herbs and minerals. (De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, N.C.)
Bodegas Gancedo Xestal Bierzo Mencía 2003
$29
***
Big and tannic with balanced flavors of fruit, smoke and minerals. (Quality Wines of Spain, New York)
Viticultores Bercianos Bierzo Gran Riocua 2001
$17
** 1/2
Elegant and expressive with aromas of wild cherry, flowers and spices. (Maja Imports, Milford, Conn.)
Bodegas y Viñedos Paixar Bierzo Mencía 2004
$65
** 1/2
Closed at first, but with time in the glass lovely aromas of violets and herbs emerge. (Grapes of Spain, Lorton, Va.)
Bodegas Estefanía Bierzo Tilenus Pagos de Posada 2001
$28
** 1/2
Juicy and spicy with bright floral aromas and earthy fruit flavors. (Spain Wine Collection, Congers, N.Y.)
Bodegas Peique Bierzo Selección Familiar Mencía 2003
$52
**
Tannic with earthy wild-cherry flavors. (Vinos & Gourmet/José Pastor Selection, Richmond, Calif.)
Bodegas Peique Bierzo Mencía 2006
$13
**
Flavors of fruit, earth, flowers and minerals. (Vinos & Gourmet/José Pastor Selection)
Dominio de Tares Bierzo Cepas Viejas 2004
$24
**
