South of the Yang Zi, East of the C?te(2)

            I'll confess I was just a little dismayed when I learned that this
            first real introduction to Comte Liger-Belair's range would be his
            2004s.  Yet I'm pleased to report that while 2004 was a difficult
            year for Pinots throughout much of the C魌e d'Or, Comte
            Liger-Belair's wines admirably managed to side-step most of the
            vintage's blights: dilution, rot, greenness and bitter tannins. 
            Louis-Michel's 2004s are pure, elegant and supple, providing good
            balance, if a little on the light side.  Jiang-Nan Chun made for a
            perfectly decadent introduction to this line-up, not least of all
            because the wines showed so well with the food.  Most superbly were
            the "Clos du Chateau" with Braised Homemade Spinach Beancurd and
            Monkey Head Mushrooms with Oyster Sauce and the "Aux Reignots 1er
            Cru" alongside Deep-fried Spare Ribs with Minced Garlic ?truly a
            Comte's feast fit for Yang Zi supping emperors.
            Menu
            Barbequed Whole Suckling Pig
            with
            De Sousa Blanc de Blancs Reserve Brut NV, Grand Cru
            Deep-fried 'Soon Hock' with Soy Sauce
            with
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "La Colombiere"
            Braised Homemade Spinach Beancurd and Monkey Head Mushrooms with
            Oyster Sauce
            with
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "Clos du Chateau"
            Stir-fried Scallops and Honey Beans with Sunflower Seeds
            with
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "Les Chaumes", Premier Cru
            Deep-fried Spare Ribs with Minced Garlic
            with
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "Aux Reignots", Premier Cru
            Fried Rice with Sliced Abalone, Crabmeat and Egg White
            with
            2004 La Roman閑, Grand Cru
            De Sousa Blanc de Blancs Reserve Brut NV, Grand Cru
            92 points
            Very toasty, predominately nutty nose with complimentary aromas of
            honeycomb, bread-dough and chalk dust.  The palate confirms that
            this is a rich, voluptuous style of Champagne with generous amounts
            of brioche and toasted hazelnut flavours beautifully balanced by
            crisp acidity.  Long minerally finish.  Tasted January 2009.
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "La Colombiere"
            90 points
            Very pale ruby-brick colour.  Pretty, fruity nose of pure raspberry
            and red cherry with a whiff of Provence herbs.  The palate has
            refreshingly crisp acidity with the vaguest suggestion of silky
            tannins.  Long finish with nuances of iron-ore.  Drink now to 2012. 
            Tasted January 2009.
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "Clos du Chateau"
            91 points
            Very pale ruby / tawny colour.  Earthy, meaty aromas emanate from
            the glass conjuring an image of truffle laced game with a raspberry
            sauce served on a bed of damp moss.  A firm backbone of acid
            supports the soft, supple tannins and delicate red berry fruit. 
            Long earthy finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted January 2009.
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "Les Chaumes", Premier Cru
            94 points
            Pale ruby-brick colour.  Very enticing ripe cherry, violet and
            cinnamon aromas on the nose with a hint of bacon fat.  This is quite
            a structured style with a medium+ level of finely grained tannins
            and high level of acidity balancing the good concentration of spiced
            berry fruit.  Very long finish with lingering notes of minerals and
            cloves.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted January 2009.
            2004 Vosne-Roman閑 "Aux Reignots", Premier Cru
            92 points
            Medium ruby colour.  Complex aromas of hung meat, warm strawberry,
            white pepper, tobacco leaf and a little leather.  The palate appears
            fruitier than the nose with a medium level of slightly chewy tannins
            and a crisp backbone of acid supporting a good amount of flesh. 
            Long finish.  Drink now to 2014.  Tasted January 2009.
            2004 La Roman閑, Grand Cru
            91 points
            Pale ruby to garnet colour.  Subtle, notably earthy notes of forest
            floor, mushrooms and moist loam on the nose with a delicate
            spiciness / smokiness and a gentle whiff of cigar box.  The palate
            is elegantly styled with crisp acidity and moderate tannins
            balancing restrained fruit.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2015. 
            Tasted January 2009.