Food: The many words for spice(2)

There are different varieties and species of peppercorns related to huajiao that are used in Sichuan but never found in America. One example is shanhujiao (珊瑚椒 or 山胡椒), which is a fresh-picked peppercorn that has to be used right away or else preserved in oil. It has a taste like huajiao except with an additional lemony citrus flavor. The combination of huajiao numbness and spiciness with citrus flavor is a very intense and alien taste. I haven’t decided whether it’s delicious or hideous—it’s that unusual!

Another kind of spicy taste is chong (冲). This is the taste of spicy mustard and Japanese wasabi which tickles your nose and makes you want to sneeze. Mustard flavor is often used in cold dishes in Sichuan, such as spicy cold noodles. Now you have some vocabulary to describe your favorite spicy dishes in detail. You can practice at home by cooking your own Sichuan dishes. The following recipe uses a combination of ma and la flavors—huajiao peppercorns and chili peppers. You can increase or reduce the level of spice in the dish to match your level of endurance.
Spicy Sichuan Chicken – 辣子雞丁

Ingredients:
• 1 pound of chicken (breast or thigh)
• 2 tbs. Shaoxing rice wine (see Note 1)
• 3-4 long hot peppers (or jalapeño peppers)
• 3 stalks green onions (scallions)
• 3 tbs. minced douban 豆瓣 (see Note 2)
• 5 cloves of garlic, minced
• 3 tbs. ginger, minced
• 1 tbs. dry red pepper, crushed
• 1 tbs. whole huajiao 花椒peppercorns (Sichuan peppercorns) (see Note 3)
• 2 whole cloves of star anise
• dark soy sauce
• salt & black pepper
• cooking oil