Languedoc may be France's largest wine region but being big has won it little respect. Usually overshadowed by Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire and Alsace, Languedoc (pronounced lahng-DAWK) is best known—if known at all—for the vast lake of inexpensive wine it produces.
Although times and wines have begun to change, Languedoc has remained, in the words of author Robert Joseph, "the sleeping giant of the wine world."
The region's winemakers are trying to awaken consumers in hopes that some day you'll find and buy their wines in your local store. And you should look for them. As Joseph notes in his book, "French Wine," Languedoc can produce some really great wines at affordable prices.
Working in Languedoc's favor is the fact this emerging region isn't forced to defend its turf like more established appellations, said Joseph Spellman, master sommelier for California's Justin Vineyard & Winery.
Waking up to the 'sleeping giant' region of Languedoc(1)
"They can say, 'We make good wine and it's cheap,' " he said. "The region makes everything, and they're throwing a lot of stuff against the wall trying to figure out what to do."
Like most French wines, Languedocs are labeled by where the grapes are grown and the wines made. Languedoc is not known for any one grape, the way Burgundy is noted for pinot noir. All types of wine are made, from sparkling to dessert, red, white and rosé. Most of the wines are red, mostly made from carignan, cinsault and grenache, according to "The New Wine Lover's Companion." Some winemakers are beginning to use mourvedre, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot to improve quality.
Languedoc winemakers also are working to connect to you, the consumer. It isn't easy, given there's a three-tier system in the United States of producers, distributors and retailers standing between you and the wine. So, to get to you, the Languedoc winemakers have to hit the distributors and retailers.
"It's the trade that moves this stuff. And the trade is slow moving and very wary, especially right now," Spellman said. "You don't want to have a lot of inventory around. People are not taking a lot of chances."
Targeting the trade was the rationale behind the "Languedoc Ambassadors Tour" sponsored last month by the Conseil Interprofessionel du Vin de Languedoc. Twenty-eight wines were poured at a lunch and tasting for members of the wine trade and wine press in New York, Chicago and San Francisco (I didn't go).
"The goal is to get press coverage for these wines and get retailers and restaurants interested so the wine comes before the public more often," said Ross Wasserman, senior account executive with Benson Marketing Group, a wine industry public relations firm based in New York City.
These "get-to-know-us" events are fairly typical in the wine industry, especially to promote lesser-known makers and regions such as Languedoc.
"You've got to do absolutely everything you can do," said Donna M. White, partner in the marketing and public relations firm, Gregory White, which has offices in New York and Greenwich, Conn. "Without any noise you can't win."
Rating the languedocs
Good Eating's wine-tasting panel took on the role of wine buyer when sampling five reds from the Minervois appellation in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southeast France. Besides noting color, aroma, flavor, texture and possible food pairings for each wine, tasters were asked one final question: Would you buy it?
Clearly when it came to spending their own money, panelists were tough. Only two of the wines were clear "yes" choices.
The wines were part of the Languedoc Ambassadors Tour to raise the Languedoc profile. So finding them may be problematic. Those heading to U.S. stores are likely still in the pipeline awaiting importation and/or distribution. Call your local retailer if any wine particularly strikes your fancy; the retailer can try to order it for you. Prices are suggested retail price.
2004 Chateau Cabezac Minervois Cuvee Arthur
Smelling of earth, hay and tobacco, this blend of mourvedre, syrah and grenache packed a spicy, berry flavor with notes of black cherry, green pepper. Nice tannic snap to the finish. Vote: Yes
3 corkscrews $25
2006 Chateau Maris Minervois La Liviniere
