Peaceful times on the Big Island with tea(1)
A young couple had one last day on the Big Island before they both were to be deployed to Iraq. They could've spent that day hiking or swimming. Instead, they chose to drink tea with Eva Lee.
The ritual of preparing and drinking tea has throughout history been a path to serenity and introspection," Lee said. "In old Japan the samurai left their weapons outside and entered the teahouse with a quiet, thoughtful demeanor. Last July there were two modern-day warriors at my door seeking the same experience. I was honored to be their host."
Lee owns and operates Tea Hawaii & Co. with her photographer/ceramist husband, Chiu Leong. Headquartered on their 5-acre property in Volcano Village, the business grows, processes and sells tea and tea plants.
One of seven children born to a father from China and a mother from Virginia, Lee regards tea as a metaphor of her dual heritage. She grew up in a home in Connecticut where both Chinese and English teas were regularly served. Her enjoyment of tea continued throughout her 30-year career in theater and dance.
Leong, whose parents hailed from China, also traces a lifelong connection to tea. He started his art career in the late 1960s, making bowls, cups and other tea implements. His understanding of and appreciation for tea deepened through his study of "chanoyu," the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.
In 2001 the couple became acquainted with Dr. Francis Zee, a renowned horticulturist and research scientist at the Pacific Basin Agricultural Research Center in Hilo who had just reintroduced Camellia sinensis in Hawaii. All "true teas" -- green, white, oolong and black -- are derived from this plant; the differences depend on the way it is processed.
"Prior to that, Camellia sinensis had not been available to the public in Hawaii since the 1800s," Lee said. "Dr. Zee put forth the idea that it could be grown commercially here. He sparked our interest to grow tea and to develop a unique tea experience."
LEE AND LEONG launched Tea Hawaii & Co. in 2002. Their tea plantings cover two acres. Some are in a garden; the rest flourish amid olapa and ohia trees and hapuu and palapalai ferns in the lush forest that surrounds their home.
"It's unconventional," Lee said, "but Camellia sinensis is a hardy plant that has done well, even in vog. We chose that method because we didn't want to do any clear-cutting. We have the only rain forest shade-grown tea in the state -- and, very likely, the country."
Lee hopes this unique eco-friendly technique will inspire other entrepreneurs interested in starting an agricultural venture, especially because Camellia sinensis can live for a few thousand years, increasing its potential as a small-scale industry in Hawaii.
