French wine in Chinese bottles(2)
For many producers here, the investors and particularly the potential consumers of China have come to represent a new horizon, perhaps a source of wealth that will pull the region out of a slump brought on by overheated prices, competition from New World wines and the recession.
Surprisingly, in a country often jealous of its patrimony, the Chinese incursion has not generated any protests of note, local producers said. In part, this is because Bordeaux has long been fertile terrain for foreign involvement. Aquitaine, the historical region that includes Bordeaux wine country, once belonged to the English crown. Dutch and British businessmen and engineers participated in its early economic development. British drinkers eager for claret have long been good customers.
“Here as a foreigner, you feel like a fish in water,” said Arjen Pen, a Dutch national and the principal investor in Chateau Richelieu until its sale to A & A International Group, a Hong Kong-based holding company.
For instance, when Latour-Laguens went up for sale, a Luxembourg countess, a Belgian investor and a Maltese businessman were Longhai’s main competitors. In addition, Chinese companies are hiring experienced local specialists to guide them in planning for renovations.
Toutounji, for instance, has been retained as an oenology consultant for both chateaux. Pen said he has been asked to stay on as manager until the end of the year.
Since taking possession of the chateau, Longhai has named a hotel after it in Qingdao and launched a chain of wine bars with the same name.
