Australian wine is finding its feet in China(2)

Dr Fang thinks this is the reason French wine is still the most popular in China and why Australian wine - while improving its position - is still considered second-tier.

"Chinese wine consumers think French culture is good, therefore the wine is good. Australia means good lobster and seafood.''

There are areas for Australian wine producers to exploit, however. Dr Fang is convinced that wine consumption will only grow in China - and significantly so. One report suggests that by 2025, China will boast 200 million middle-class households - the sorts of places where wine might be enjoyed. The fact that Australia can "play around with aspects of wine appreciation" is another area Dr Fang thinks can work well for our industry. But her real bugbear is labelling.

"Bilingual labelling is good; it enhances Chinese understanding. And what's wrong with using a really good Chinese name on the label? Australian names mean nothing to Chinese wine drinkers. And so many of the label colours are wrong. None of the Australian wine labels are really liked by the Chinese.''

Asked how a wine called "Black Dog Creek" might sell in China, Dr Fang replies: "You would not sell one bottle." And yet China beckons.