Wine: 'Noah planted vines in Eastern Turkey'(2)
Next, I would recommend plunging into native Turkish grapes with the dark and rich Kavaklidere Prestige Bogazkere (£13.50) and its appealing use of oak, nice touch of figs and the vegetal edges that underpin its dark cherry fruit.
For a special ADVERTISEMENToccasion, step up to Kavaklidere Chateau Pendore Okuzgozu (£20); this is Western observers' favourite grape (translating to Ox Eye) and is closer to Merlot than, say, the Cabernet Sauvignon of Bogazkere. Do not stretch those comparisons too far, though; these are quality indigenous grapes in their own right. The Okuzgozu has soft raspberry and forest fruits flavours with lively acidity and has been carefully manufactured with a combination of hand harvesting and modern equipment.
As the more expensive white wines tend to focus on internationally known grapes, I suggest you stick with the local varieties. Kavaklidere Ancyra Narince (£8) is a single variety wine with a zesty orange nose and flavours centred on lime. Narince has been likened to chardonnay by some; floral and citrus like when young but rich and creamy with the judicious use of oak. For an entry point white, however, do try Kavaklidere Classic Cankaya (£6.50) with its blend of the narince, emir and sultaniye grapes delivering fresh and well balanced flavours that make it Turkey's most popular white wine.
The grape varieties emerging from countries like Greece and Turkey really could usher in the biggest changes we have seen in generations. Let's hope that the movers and shakers - and anyone else unfettered by years of tradition - can seize the opportunity.
Best Buys
2009 Merlot Cité de Carcassonne; Carcassonne, Southern France; 13.5 per cent: a smooth, good value, entry point red with soft raspberry-like flavours. £3.99 at Sainsbury.
2008 Vega de la Reina Rueda Verdejo; Rueda, Spain; 13 per cent: an intense, fresh white wine with light touches of fennel to start off with and a lemon sorbet finish. £5.99 (down from £7.99 when you buy two during August) at Majestic.
2006 Vigna del Lauro Chardonnay; Friuli, Italy; 13 per cent: a polished chardonnay with a bit of age and balanced apple and orange flavours. £7.99 at Raeburn Fine Wines.
• This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, August 1, 2010
