Wine Wars(1)
Vicente Muedra. Inset
By Gao Fumao
China's predilection for French wines can be frustrating to oenologists from other lands who reckon their product matches or betters the Gallic bottles running off Beijing shelves. We've been meeting some winemakers from around the world who've come to bang on the doors of Beijing's restaurants, bars and bodegas. We'll meet four more wine nationalists next week in part two of Wine Wars.
Michael Daymond King Photos: Guo Yingguang and courtesy of King, Foulkes, Valentini and Marzio.
South Africa
South African Oscar Foulkes continues a family tradition started by his vine-growing grandmother in 1960s South Africa. Long-time marketing man at Cloof Wine Estate and an expert in retailing and making wine, Foulkes is regularly in Beijing to help South African winemakers snare Chinese wine drinkers.
Why is the profile of South African wine comparatively weak in Asia?
There are a few factors, the first historical?– the UK and rest of Europe are important markets, so there's?less need to look elsewhere.?Asia is a long trip for South Africans. But the biggest factor is that Asia, and this is a?big generalization, expects wine to be French. South African doesn't have the same "quality wine" association, which makes it harder.
What's special about South African wine?
For the same money you'll definitely get a better wine from South Africa than from France. For?Australia, it's more about wine styles. Especially at the lower end of the market, I find many Australian wines overly sweet, over-oaked, or just?lacking in subtlety. South African red wine is more popular, but South African Sauvignon Blanc is fantastic.
What's your favorite non-South African wine?
I like the great French wines, and I have a soft spot for Condrieu. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc?is great in the humid conditions here.
Who's your typical Chinese consumer?
My guess is?male businessmen. However, in order for the market to take off, we need more young upwardly mobile consumers, evenly spread between men and women.
Do you see a significant annual increase in your sales in China this year?
Yes, but I think the market is going to take a long time to develop.
What's a good wine for a starter new to your label?
Wherever we take The Very Sexy Shiraz it wins friends for the brand. I particularly like Inkspot and The Dark Side, two red blends.
