Middle road Bordeaux(2)
Bordeaux Superieur
One step up from basic AOC level is Bordeaux Superieur wines that range from ordinary to quite good. Superieur doesn't really mean superior, but it can be a good wine. The 2009 Guillaume Blanc is a fine example of a well-made Bordeaux red with plenty of fruit and good structure. Another very nice wine in this category is the 2008 Chateau Timberlay Superieur, a large producer of consistently good-drinking, affordable wines.
Cru Bourgeois
Paying a little more to get a Cru Bourgeois wine is one of the most reliable ways to choose a good Bordeaux red wine, however it's not always easy to find one under 500 yuan. Some of the better Cru Bourgeois wines often outperform some of the 1855 Grand Cru Classe wines. The 2008 Chateau Barateau is an elegant Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois that's just under 500 yuan. Other wines at this level and price are the 2006 Chateau Loudenne and Chateau Larose-Trintaudon.
Not Quite Saint Emilion
One of the most reliable ways to get a well-made budget Bordeaux is to choose wines from lesser-known Right Bank sub-appellations. In simple terms this means wines from regions surrounding the famous Saint Emilion appellation. Two fine examples are 2006 Chateau du Courlat from Lussac-Saint-Emilion, a graceful and elegant wine, and the 2001 L'As de Roudier from Montagne Saint-Emilion, a rare case of an affordable, decade-old Bordeaux that's drinking beautifully now.
The food
Structured Bordeaux reds as featured in this column are not afternoon sippers or aperitif wines; rather they are wines that deserve a good meal. Some classic Bordeaux red pairings include beef rib steak with a rich sauce of Bordeaux red wine, shallots, herbs and bone marrow, Pauillac rack or leg of lamb liberally sprinkled with fresh herbs and roasted or grilled, or an assortment of locally produced soft, semi-hard and hard cheeses. When you realize that Bordeaux reds and these ingredients and dishes have synergistically co-existed for centuries, it's little surprise that they taste so wonderful together. More challenging, but equally rewarding when you get it right is pairing these reds with Chinese dishes. Two of my favorite dishes to enjoy with Bordeaux red wines are modern Shanghai-style slow-roasted beef rib and Yunnan-style fried lamb chops. In both cases the dark fruit flavors in the wines enhance the flavors of the meats, almost acting as a sauce, while the tannins cleanse the palate and facilitate digestion.
