A tale of two Rhônes(2)
In Cornas, tasting from the old foudres at Domaine A. Clape, it’s apparent that components of the 2010s are more complex, focused and precise than the already delicious 2009s, a part of which have just been bottled. “It’s better than ’09, we think; it’s more balanced,” explains Olivier Clape, the youngest-generation vigneron at this historic family domaine.
Paralleling the red wines, among northern Rhône whites the 2010s are unquestionably fresher and more balanced than the often opulent, sometimes fat 2009s. That’s especially true of both reds and whites in the south, where Sarton du Jonchay calls 2010 “one of the best vintages I’ve worked with.”
As the magazine’s reviewer for Rhône wines, I’m envisioning a great next year of blind tastings, with excellent wines from north and south, red and white. But don’t feel you have to wait for a positive review—these are rare vintages that will have many more hits than misses. As the introspective Jean-Louis Chave explains: “both [vintages] are beautiful but for different reasons.”
