Cut, London(1)
There is nice food at Cut in London, but is head chef Mr Puck a robbin’ goodfellow?
Cut, London Photo: CLARA MOLDEN
Cut, 45 Park Lane, London W1K 1PN;
Contact 020 7493 4554; www.45parklane.com.
Price Three courses with half a bottle of wine, coffee and tip: £120-£140 per head
It may be too soon to call it a full-blown invasion, but the second review in three weeks of a London newbie involving an American cook with a Germanic name and cold sweat-inducing prices begins to suggest an advance landing party.
A fortnight ago we discussed Thomas Keller and his £250 per head (without drinks) French Laundry pop-up at Harrods. Today, a brief stroll from Knightsbridge to Park Lane takes us to another Californian culinary megastar.
His name is Wolfgang Puck and unlike Mr Keller, he (or his executive chef) is here to stay at Cut, on the ground floor of a Dorchester Hotel offshoot.
Wolfgang Puck, eh? Now there’s a beauty for forthcoming stocking-filler Michelin Rhyming Slang. “Any luck in the 3.50 at Haydock, me old china?” “Nah, pal, I’m right dahn on me Wolfgang as it goes. Couldn’t back the winner in a bleedin’ one ’orse race.”
In Michelin terms, the Austrian-born Puck is not in Keller’s triple-starred league. But his flagship Spago, a Beverly Hills magnet for movie players down the ages, maintains its brace while his armada of outlets expands across the globe and now crosses the Atlantic for the first time.
