Drinking history in Greek wines(2)
In the 1960s, the retsina craze in Greece further blighted the nation's international wine reputation.
The growing numbers of international tourists who visited Greece came to associate Greek wines with this rather unfortunate style of white and rose wine that's made using pine resin and often has turpentine qualities.
However, over the past four decades starting in 1971 and 1972 when a new appellation system was established and in 1981 when Greece entered the European Union, Greek producers have made leaps in quality.
The industry has evolved from one with domestic focus with limited investment to a more modern industry making delicious, award-winning wines that are increasingly competitive in international markets.
There's a term used in Greece to define the quality wines of Greece today, the "New Wines of Greece." In fact, these wines combine modern winemaking and technology with ancient traditions and varieties as well as diverse terrior.
The results are impressive. In the hands of the most talented winemakers in Greece today, ancient native Greek varieties are making increasingly impressive modern wines.
Simplifying the diversified wines of Greece isn't easy, but I shall endeavor to highlight the major regions and varietals of this ancient land.
The major viticultural areas can be divided into five zones consisting of Northern Greece, including Thrace, Macedonia and Epirus; Central Greece and Attica; the Peloponnese and Ionian Islands; Crete and lastly the Aegean Islands.
The climate and soils of these areas are quite varied so it's no surprise that there are numerous varieties each with their own personality and potential.
The most important white wine grapes are Assyrtiko, making fresh wines often with citrus fruit qualities and good acidity, and the globally known Muscat varietal which makes rich, dense and highly aromatic wines with moderate acidity.
The two best red wine varietals are Aghiorgitiko that makes deeply colored and concentrated wines with friendly fruity qualities and Xiynomavro, a high-quality varietal that makes elegant, aromatic and age-worthy wines with lots of rich red fruit aromas and flavors along with structured tannins.
International white wine varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and red wine grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are also popular with Greek wine makers to make single varietal wines or to use in blends with native varieties.
Food pairing
Should you have the good fortune to visit Greece the natural affinity between Greek wines and foods will be become immediately clear.
Whether it's a classic Greek salad with feta cheese - yes, only Greek feta cheese is the real thing - or grilled fish with a crisp Assyrtiko white or classic Greek-style seasoned meat balls or a beautifully grilled leg of lamb with a top Xiynomavro red, there are countless combinations to please and tantalize the palate. But Greek wines should not only be confined to these culinary boundaries, especially when we live in a city like Shanghai with a wonderfully varied gourmet offering.
After a structured tasting of Greek wines for this column in my office, I brought the unfinished wines to one of my favorite Hangzhou restaurants and discovered some lovely combinations.
Of particular enlightenment was the pairing of two Xiynomavro reds with the weighty meat dish Dongpo Pork.
The ample fruit and tannins of the red wine cut through the fattiness of the pork while highlighting the best savory qualities of the dishes.
The subtle exotic spiciness of the wines also added sophisticated flavor dimensions to the rich sauce. The marriage of two ancient epicurean treasures from different parts of the world was a stunning success.
