Yellow Mountain I: up the eastern steps to the North Sea(3)
However, I'm to be lucky and at that very moment a couple of Chinese ask me if I want their room. It is actually the room of the workers and has nothing but a bed and some hot water. It's a short walk up the nearby hill to some shared toilets and there's no heating, but even this is better than a tent in my mind and I accept.
Worth it for the Stars
Accommodation settled and I'm starving. The cheapest meal option is a buffet-style dinner at 100 yuan per person. I can't really afford it on my budget and so I make my way to the small shop that sells food. The prices are high even for the basics and I eat tonight what is to become my staple food for the next three days: a pot noodle and tea eggs.
Even hot water has a price here on Yellow Mountain. If you buy a pot noodle it's free to fill the pot, but otherwise it's 5 yuan for a small flask or 15 yuan for a big flask.
I take my steaming noodles and tea eggs to my room and stuff them down and feel warm for the first time in hours.
I decide on an evening stroll in the dark before I sleep, I'm not sure why. I wear every item of clothing I've brought with me and it keeps me on the edge of warmth.
Nothing in the whole day is as beautiful or unforgettable as this last half hour. I walk out beyond the hotel lights to a place of steps and trees and look upwards.
There, in the sky, are stars. Not just one star, or a hundred, but thousands of them as clear and bright as if they have just been born. I make myself almost dizzy standing and staring into the sky, tracing the familiar constellations and gasping at the lightning leaps of shooting stars.
On this bitter cold evening on Yellow Mountain, I learn one of its least-told secrets: that here the night is not black, it's silver.
Information for Travelers
CITS WEBSITE
The official website for Yellow Mountain is actually VERY good, with everything you need to know. Here's the link: http://www.huangshantour.com/english/
Eastern Route (Eastern Steps)
Route Length: 7.5km Estimated time (up): 3hours (if you are reasonably fit, including photo-stops)
Difficulty: 7.5km might not sound far, but remember you are going UP steps CONTINUALLY. Cable Car: The Yungu Cable Car goes from the bottom of the Eastern Route to the summit in around 20 minutes.
MY TIP The scenery here is OK but not "amazing" compared with the rest of Yellow Mountain. If you are on a tight time-scale and want to miss any part of it, this is the part to miss.
Western Route (Western Steps)
Route Length: 15km (variable depending on exact route) Estimated time (down): 6 hours (including lunch and photo-stops)
Difficulty: bloody hard down, harder coming up Cable Car: The Yuping Cable Car goes from the Jade Screen area to the bottom of the Western Route in around 20 minutes.
MY TIP The Western Route down is spectacular and 100% more interesting than the Eastern Route. Try and go DOWN this way, I can't imagine you’d enjoy it as much coming UP.
Northern Route (Northern Steps)
Route Length: unknown Estimated time (up): 4 hours (according to the official)
Difficulty: unknown Cable Car: The Taiping Cable Car goes from Red Cloud Station to the bottom of the Northern Route in around 20 minutes.
MY TIP Similar to the Eastern Route in terms of scenery, if you miss this route out you won’t have missed a great deal. I did it via cable car as a side-trip.
TICKET PRICES
Please remember these are WINTER, OFF-SEASON prices, per person
Yellow Mountain Entrance Fee: 120 yuan, 100 yuan for students Cable Cars: 45-55 yuan one-way Bus From Tangkou to Eastern Route Entrance: 10 yuan
ACCOMMODATION
opposite Beihai Hotel Tents: 150 yuan per tent (2-person sharing) 6-bed dorm with heater: 80 yuan per bed
FOOD
Before you grumble about the prices, it's worth remembering how the food gets up the mountain. Though I'm not sure how much of the mark-up actually pays the workers who bring it!
Snack food is at least double the price you would pay from a supermarket.
Basic buffet meal at Beihai Hotel: 100 yuan per person
From the stores:
Pot noodles: 10-15 yuan a pot (+ free hot water) Hot Milk Tea: 10 yuan a cup (+ free hot water) Tea Eggs (eggs boiled in tea): 2.5 yuan each Red Wine: 120 yuan a bottle Beer: 10 yuan upwards per can/bottle Biscuits: 10 yuan per packet
MY TIP If you have space, take light snacks with you: nuts, raisins and chocolate are especially good!
WEATHER
Check out the weather before you go from the internet. There was no snow when I was there. Day and night time temperatures on the summit are below zero at this time of year.
AREA CLOSURES: WINTER
Be aware that from November to March (depending on the weather) various areas around Yellow Mountain are closed because of dangerous conditions due to ice and snow.
The MAIN areas are:
1. The West Grand Canyon Scenic Area 2. Lotus Peak 3. Heavenly City Peak
