Yellow Mountain II: from sunrise to sunset(3)
It's an atmospheric spot, here, where the water falls from a small crush of rocks into a pool. Overhead, the feathery fronds of giant bamboos curve like cathedral arches and the bulky peaks of Yellow Mountain stand firmly against the sky.
The Monkey Watching the Sea
Returning to the top of the mountain I have a couple of hours before the sunset and take another route that will lead me to Lion Peak calling in on the Monkey Watching the Sea along the way.
I'm fascinated by the little figure of rock that is depicted on the map as a monkey and this is enough to get my legs back into gear to do some more climbing. I don’t expect it but the route is almost entirely uphill through an area packed with pine trees. Beneath the pines are the short fat leaves of pygmy bamboos and the ground is crunchy with fallen needles.
Even more unexpected is the fact that the little monkey rock in real life has been faithfully reproduced on the map. It's curious how humans the world over search the abstract forms of nature looking for resemblances to something "known". Arguably, none more so than the Chinese, who seem to find animals and faces in every peak and rock. More often than not I’m left slightly bewildered but in this case I'm convinced that the rock, sat on a narrow ledge of cliff and looking out into the cloudy haze, is a monkey watching the sea.
The Last Sunset of the Year
I'm becoming used to the gathering of crowds on Yellow Mountain at certain times of the day. I'm fortunate to have got a good position right on top of Lion Peak where the steps end in rock and there's nowhere else to go. The view is excellent.
Hundreds line the peak at various intervals, with cameras at the ready, and it's a communal sunset viewing by many different nationalities: Koreans, Japanese, Chinese, myself and others. I am moved by the peace and simplicity of this gathering, imagining it happening at peaks all over Yellow Mountain, as the watchers come together to see the sun go down on New Year’s Eve.
As befits the last day of the year, the sun doesn't disappoint us. Though it's bitterly cold and my feet are starting to go numb, I can't help but be mesmerized by its inexorable descent. It's a sunset of fire. A rich burst of orange followed by blood red. The landscape to the West turns black and it looks for a minute or two as though the whole world is on fire, and then it's gone.
The last day of the year goes over with magnificent style.
I begin the long walk back cocooned in my down jacket, each step restoring a rush of heat to my toes, and the fire of the sunset dying before my eyes.
Orange fading to yellow. Red fading to pink. Day fading to night.
Information for Travelers
CITS WEBSITE
The official website for Yellow Mountain is actually VERY good, with everything you need to know. Here's the link: http://www.huangshantour.com/english/
Eastern Route (Eastern Steps)
Route Length: 7.5km Estimated time (up): three hours (if you are reasonably fit, including photo-stops)
Difficulty: 7.5km might not sound far, but remember you are going UP steps CONTINUALLY.
Cable Car: The Yungu Cable Car goes from the bottom of the Eastern Route to the summit in around 20 minutes.
MY TIP The scenery here is OK but not "amazing" compared with the rest of Yellow Mountain. If you are on a tight time-scale and want to miss any part of it, this is the part to miss.
Western Route (Western Steps)
Route Length: 15km (variable depending on exact route) Estimated time (down): 6 hours (including lunch and photo-stops)
Difficulty: bloody hard down, harder coming up Cable Car: The Yuping Cable Car goes from the Jade Screen area to the bottom of the Western Route in around 20 minutes.
MY TIP The Western Route down is spectacular and 100 percent more interesting than the Eastern Route. Try and go DOWN this way, I can't imagine you'd enjoy it as much coming UP.
Northern Route (Northern Steps)
Route Length: unknown Estimated time (up): 4 hours (according to the official)
Difficulty: unknown Cable Car: The Taiping Cable Car goes from Red Cloud Station to the bottom of the Northern Route in around 20 minutes.
MY TIP Similar to the Eastern Route in terms of scenery, if you miss this route out you won’t have missed a great deal. I did it via cable car as a side-trip.
TICKET PRICES
Please remember these are WINTER, OFF-SEASON prices, per person
Yellow Mountain Entrance Fee: 120 yuan, 100 yuan for students Cable Cars: 45-55 yuan one-way Bus From Tangkou to Eastern Route Entrance: 10 yuan
ACCOMMODATION
Opposite Beihai Hotel Tents: 150 yuan per tent (2-person sharing) 6-bed dorm with heater: 80 yuan per bed
FOOD
Before you grumble about the prices, it’s worth remembering how the food gets up the mountain. Though I’m not sure how much of the mark-up actually pays the workers who bring it!
Snack food is at least double the price you would pay from a supermarket.
Basic buffet meal at Beihai Hotel: 100 yuan per person
From the stores:
Pot noodles: 10-15 yuan a pot (+ free hot water) Hot Milk Tea: 10 yuan a cup (+ free hot water) Tea Eggs (eggs boiled in tea): 2.5 yuan each Red Wine: 120 yuan a bottle Beer: 10 yuan upwards per can/bottle Biscuits: 10 yuan per packet
MY TIP If you have space, take light snacks with you: nuts, raisins and chocolate are especially good!
WEATHER
Check out the weather before you go from the internet. There was no snow when I was there. Day and night time temperatures on the summit are below zero at this time of year.
AREA CLOSURES: WINTER
Be aware that from November to March (depending on the weather) various areas around Yellow Mountain are closed because of dangerous conditions due to ice and snow.
The MAIN areas are:
1. The West Grand Canyon Scenic Area 2. Lotus Peak 3. Heavenly City Peak
