These pinks are sweet, but not in a sugary way(1)
It's time for the annual Ode to Pink, one of my favorite wine columns of the year. Many people ask me, "Do you have to write about rosé wine every single summer? Wouldn't once every four years be enough?"
No. It would not.
You see, I love the stuff. And there is no better warm-weather quaff. Plus, it's my wine column and I can do whatever I want, right?
Besides, pink wine needs to be more appreciated. It is not always sweet. Mostly it is dry. The good ones are made from red grapes that have been pressed off their skins early, giving the wine a pink, or rose, color. Meant to be served chilled, these wines are often complex, frequently underpriced and always great with food.
This year, I was determined to search out some pinks that I had not yet discovered. Happily, it wasn't hard at all. In fact, it was most enjoyable.
So here goes. My Pink Picks for summer 2011. These are all vintage 2010, meaning they were made from last fall's grapes. They are all fresh and young, and meant to be drunk exactly that way. No reason to cellar or fuss. Just chill and drink with friends, as soon as you are able.
Juvé y Camps Brut Rosé (Pénèdes, Spain). A beautiful dry sparkling wine for special occasions (keeping in mind that every day is special). Made from 100 percent Pinot noir, it is fresh, fizzy and fabulous. ($16).
Chateau D'Esclans Whispering Angel (Côtes de Provence, France). This rose lives up to its name. Just a hush of pink in the color, with a palate that whispers a hint of red berry fruit and a touch of spice. It's a blend of Grenache, rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and mourvedre grapes, balanced by a gentle acidity and a slight Mediterranean saltiness. Classic Provence. This rosé is for real. ($16).
Hecht & Bannier Rosé (Languedoc, France). A brilliant, mouthwatering shade of dark pink is a signal of good things to come. The flavors are all cherry and citrus, and the finish is bone dry. It makes me crave a nice aioli (garlic mayo) with fresh garden vegetables at a seaside table in Marseilles. The blend is Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache. It's $8. Say what?
Ercavio Tempranillo Rosado (Tierra de Castilla, Spain). Just smelling this bright Spanish rosé makes me smile. Made from the local tempranillo grape, this wine is a fruit basket in disguise. Strawberry, rhubarb, watermelon and yes ... even pineapple. But dry, dry, dry. For best results, enjoy with a chilled gazpacho soup. ($11).
Bastianich Rosato (Friuli, Italy). Made from 100 percent Refosco grapes, this stunning rosé is the cheapest way I know to travel to northeastern Italy. Earthy and rustic, yet fresh at the same time. This wine speaks of its home in Friuli. Then it screams for some good Italian food. Bring on the arancini! ($12).
