Languedoc - France's lab for a new wine wave(2)
2009 Maxime Magnon Rozeta Corbieres ($28, 13.5% alcohol): Young Magnon is another of those Burgundians who ventured south (see Gros/Tollot, below) to work with warmer-climate fruit. This Carignan-dominant field blend grown on limestone and schist is Corbieres channeled by a Pinot brain: subtle Castelvetrano olive, fir, violet and wild strawberry, with a hint of Carignan's characteristic celery-seed bite. Flat-out delicious. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
2009 Castelmaure Col des Vents Corbieres ($11, 14%): This ambitious, modern co-op is showing the virtues of diligent farming across its 870 acres. Carignan-dominant Vents delivers a ton for the money, with plush Grenache fruit rounding out its bay leaf and dark stone edges. (Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils)
2009 Les Clos Perdus Prioundo Corbieres ($17, 14.5%): The English-Australian team of Hugo Stewart and Paul Old have tapped this Languedoc area, and their biodynamic farming on old, mostly discarded sites (hence the name, "lost vineyards") has yielded a gorgeous steel-aged blend of Grenache and Cinsault. Spicy and full of dried thyme, huckleberry and light soy, with a dramatic mineral presence that dominates the palate. (Importer: K&L Wine Merchants/Premier Wine Co.)
2009 Anne Gros/Jean-Paul Tollot Les Fontanilles Minervois ($40.50, 14.5%): Anne Gros and Jean-Paul Tollot ventured south from Burgundy to create a truly memorable project (go to: sfg.ly/Ahlzmq). The '09s are fleshier than the '08s, but the mix of Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault and Grenache from sandy soils highlights Minervois' best nature: a mix of earthy depth and fruity finesse. The blue fruit and bayberry are pure and supple - that Burgundian skill on display - accented by a quintessentially Mediterranean aroma of burnt wild herbs. (Importer: North Berkeley Imports)
2008 Hecht & Bannier Minervois ($20, 14%): This relatively new label (founded in 2002) taps into some of the region's top vineyard areas for benchmark versions of the wines. While the dry Minervois area relies heavily on Carignan, Syrah is dominant in this bottle, from a variety of mostly clay and limestone sites. It's brimming with well-tailored fruit and subtle accents of violets and bouillon. If it's more prim than some Minervois, it's also pleasingly dense and chewy. (Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons)
2009 Chateau de Lancyre Vieilles Vignes Pic St. Loup ($24, 14%): Syrah is the big player in Pic St.-Loup, and this estate, which dates to the 16th century, has blended its older vines with 35 percent Grenache for an inky, stoic take aged in stainless steel. A green-peppercorn scent signals its base material, and accents of tar, roasted meat and strawberry round out a muscular wine. (Importer: Hand Picked Selections)
2008 Clos Marie Simon Pic St. Loup ($34, 13.5%): Christophe Peyrus has made his family's biodynamically farmed property one of the region's rising stars. This mix of Grenache and Syrah shows incredible finesse: fine-ground black pepper, thyme and subtle blueberry. Its robust side comes in later, showing potential to age. (Importer: Beaune Imports)
2009 Chateau d'Oupia Les Heretiques Vin de Pays de L'Herault ($11, 12.5%): André Iché's property in Minervois, now run by his daughter Marie-Pierre, is testament to the power of Carignan. Heretiques, entirely that grape from 40-year-old vines, is Carignan unfettered: It's full of bright, rustic berry fruit a distinct spice from Beaujolais-style carbonic fermentation (for half; the remainder is fermented in barrels), with a dried grass accent reminiscent of a summer haystack. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections)
2009 Domaine Rimbert Les Travers de Marceau Saint-Chinian ($14, 12.5%): Jean-Marie Rimbert makes joyously drinkable wines from his property in Berlou, in an appellation that gets scant notice even in the Languedoc's larger scope. Based on Carignan and Syrah, the Marceau is savory and almost minty. Carignan's earthy tones are balanced by tart cranberry and fresh herbs in a wine that bursts with character and tangy fruit. (Importer: Joli Vin)
2010 Le Cirque Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes ($18, 14.5%): This effort from the co-op in the Roussillon village of Tautavel shows the virtue of the area's old vines when not masked with too much stylish winemaking. A blend of 50 percent Carignan, plus Mourvedre and Syrah, yields a tight-knit, complex bottle. A pleasing rooty bite mixes with black olive, thyme, huckleberry and lemon oil for a stunning value of a wine. (Importer: Hand Picked Selections)
2008 Domaine Leon Barral Faugeres ($28, 13%): After founding his property in 1993, Didier Barral turned to biodynamics to reveal a serious side of the obscure appellation of Faugeres. Carignan's serious side is on display here, from 40- to 70-year-old vines on schist. Defined by a saline quality - salted plum and spice notes balance its dark, dense fruit. Even better a year from now. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
2008 Domaine La Tour Penedesses Montagne Noir Faugeres ($25, 13%): Faugere's "black mountain" is so called for its dark topsoils, and Alexander Fouque's mix of hillside Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre will charm Rhone lovers. Complex notes of olive pit and garrigue, chestnut and subtle blackberry fruit. The terrific mix sinew and richness shows the power of great schist soils. (Importer: North Berkeley Imports)
