Premier crus return to Beaujolais

La Tour du Bief, which dates back to the Middle Ages and is located in Chénas, includes some of the best vineyard plots in nearby Moulin à Vent.

Speaking to the drinks business during lunch at The Savoy in London, Girardin, whose Burgundian property includes some of the Côte d’Or’s best plots in Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet, spoke excitedly about the potential of Beaujolais’ terroirs.

“Beaujolais has real terroir,” he said. “It is true that it is the only region in France that has gone backwards in terms of quality and price, but it is on its way back believe me. It has to.”

In addition, Girardin noted that, at the moment, a top Beaujolais cru wine is only a little more expensive than generic red Burgundy and is a much more interesting wine.

“It’s a chance to offer our clients something more,” he said.

As with a great many Beaujolais estates, the estate has a number of “lieux-dits” that were granted in 1874 and include Les Caves, La Rochelle and La Tour du Bief.

With a project to reclassify the region’s “premier cru” sites currently underway, when Girardin and his wife Véronique, saw the chance to acquire an estate they did so, finalising the deal on 8 September last year.

The first release from the estate is part of the much-lauded 2009 vintage that Girardin was allowed to keep as part of the acquisition deal but Girardin is equally excited by his own 2010 effort.

Furthermore, to get the most out of Gamay he vinifies all of his wines in a Burgundian style – unfiltered – and he is considering turning the property over to biodynamic production as he has done in the Côte d’Or.

Girardin’s purchase is following in the footsteps of several famous Burgundian names including Louis Latour, Bouchard Père et fils and Louis Jadot, all of whom have been drawn to Beaujolais because of its distinct terroir and the burgeoning redevelopment taking place.