New wine trend in Japan

Among Japan’s most beguiling features for me is its apparent contradictory nature.  On the one hand it is never content with yesterday’s fashions, fads and trends and there are always new things to discover.  Each time I return I’m constantly amazed by the sudden grip of the latest apparel, flavour or gizmo being touted there.  On the other hand, there are many traditions and cultural ways that are sanctimoniously timeless.  Consider tea ceremony, kimonos, hostess bars, formal speech, inkan / hanko, punctuality, hello kitty, the 24-7 work ethic and of course the politics.

Yet with the dire impact of the financial crisis on the Japanese economy resulting in wage freezes, factory closures and rising unemployment, something has had to give.  2009 marked at least one seismic change to the relative political status quo in the land of the rising sun.  In August the Japanese voted in not only yet another Prime Minister, Hatoyama, but also momentously changed to the DPJ party (Democratic Party of Japan) following nearly 54 years of LDP (Liberal Democratic Party) political power.  In the context of all this, a shift in Japan’s wine scene may appear a mere tremor but as with the political scene it does reflect the current state of national unrest and need for realignment.

For many years Japan has had one of the highest average price points per wine bottle purchased amongst the larger wine consuming nations.  Since the 1980s boom in wine consumption Japan has been a nation of relative premium wine drinkers.  But given the recent shortage of disposable income for luxury products, there were two possible consequences: the Japanese stop drinking wine or they start drinking cheaper.  Fortunately all signs in 2009 show the latter to be the case.

Increasing demand for cheaper wines is the latest Japanese wine market trend.  This may look like unsightly cracks on the metaphorical lacquer-surface but the good news is that it appears wine itself has transcended from its trend status, following the sharp peak and trough in consumption of 1998, to form a solid foundation within Japan’s culture.  That consumption volume figures in Japan are remaining stable throughout this very difficult financial time suggests that wine in Japan is here to stay.

According to the July 2009 issue of Japan’s Wine and Spirit Review (WANDS), the fallout of this trend is that Japanese wine consumers are finally looking beyond Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux and seeking value from AC Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur as well as other areas of Europe and the New World.  In 2008 sales in general of Bordeaux showed only minor growth and Burgundy was in decline.  Vin de Table, Languedoc, Chile, Argentina, South Africa and New Zealand all showed double digit growth in 2008.

In other recent Japan wine market news, the continual trend of the strong Yen against a weak euro seems to have tightened Europe’s grasp on what remains of Japanese fine wine consumers with some amazing bargains currently available on European fine wines.  If you can afford it (and you’re paid in Yen), I would recommend stocking-up in Japan now before the FX tables turn again!

During my recent visit to Tokyo in July 2009, I asked Japanese importers to send me lists of what’s new in their portfolios to get a feel for where the market is heading.  The lists revealed a real mix of old school bastions available at good prices and new wave bargains. I selected out a range of around twenty of these wines, with the tasting notes to follow.  My least favourite packaging award goes to the Bertha Lounge Cava in a bright blue bottle and including a painted (!!) blue cork, but the wine wasn’t too bad and it could well find a place amongst the latest Japanese fads...